Fuji photos

Fuji Rock 07

Didn't make a final decision on going to this until the day before leaving Hokkaido. I'd sorted the days off a few weeks before just in case but wasn't convinced if I wanted to pay all the money - tickets and travel alone topped 60,000円 (about 265 quid!) With spending money added it worked pretty expensive but once in a lifetime an all that.



The festival was held at Naeba ski resort (kinda) near Nigata(which suffered a bad earthquake not so long before). We got the ferry from Otaru to Nigata which runs twice daily and takes 20 hours. It was actually really comfortable, for the equivalent of 26 pound we got a one way 2nd class ticket. This gave us a space in a carpeted room (free choice) with blankets, pillows and cupboard space for 12 people. However the ferry was quiet so we were only sharing with one other girl. Her name was Kanae and she was also going to the festival. The ferry is equipped with a shop, cafe, restaurant, games centre, movie theatre (we watched a Japanese dubbed Keanu Reeves and Sandra Bullock move - Lake House), and best of all - Onsen (hot bath). It had been an early start so after getting acquainted with Kanae, had a nap, then got up for a wander around, watched the movie, sat outside with some snacks and beer, then had a bath (gazing out to sea), before dinner. After dinner we polished off a bottle of red wine me and Chika had brought, before going to bed. If you have the time, I think its a great way to travel.



We arrived at Nigata port about 6.30 am. From there we had to get a taxi to Nigata train Station, and 2 trains and a shuttle bus later we were there. The festival was on for three days - Friday, Saturday, Sunday. We got there about 11.30am Friday, not long after it had kicked off. The campsite we ended up with was a pretty long walk from the festival entrance but on the upside, was under a tree - vital for trying to get some morning kip. I'd lugged my futon mattress all the way from Sapporo, not much fun on the early morning subway but it was pretty damn comfy once installed so at least it was worth the effort.



The festival site had four 0r so areas dotted among forest and conected by boardwalks. In addition, the resort has the longest ropeway in the world and during the day, for a charge you could take the 20 minute ride and at the top find the Silent Breeze and Daydreaming areas. It was like a little Alice and Wonderland (ok that's taking it a bit far but there were ropeswings, flying foxes, seesaws, people dressed up as Pandas and lions, and a little ongoing dance party with dj's. Also a rather posh and expensive chalet restaurant to contrast. It was like its own contained mini festival.



Back at ground level, Day One I saw Jarvis Cocker, Ocean Colour Scene, Muse and the highlight Grove Armada. After Groove Armada we went to the furthest stage(Orange Court) for All Night Fuji, with dj's and pole dancers. Only made it till 1.30am, and left Chika to Tim Deluxe while I started the long walk back.



Day Two after our firstvisit to Silent Breeze and daydreaming, heard a bit of Kula Shaker on the ropeway back down, then watched Lily Allen, G Love, Ash and Beastie Boys. This time the All Night Fuji was in the Red Marquee, next to the Main Stage and closest to the exit. Simian Mobile Disco and Justice were the main Internatonal Dj's , and funnily enough, the next 2 sets, one Japanese and the other French, Ithink were also double acts... is djig with your mate where its at these days? Maybe me and Chka should put something together. Stayed till after 5am, with the last dj's still playing, ended up walking back with an Aussie guy I had met earlier in the night but we sent him back to his own tent after sharing a can of cocktail partner and managed to get a bit of kip (hurray for the tree)



Day Three following a bit more SB and Daydreaming caught the last song of Mika who prancing about with balloons and a giant Panda. Weather was a bit dreich so went back to the tent for a snooze and 10 minutes later there was an absolute downpour. Managed to drag myself out of the nice dry tent for the last half of the Happy Mondays, and Battles started getting prepared for the Chemical Brothers whom Chika had been waiting the whole festival for. Got some food, went to the toilet and checked out a bit of the VooREDOMS before heading back to the main stage in good time. Straight after their set headed back to the Green Stage to catch the end of Juno Reactor who were one of my highlights then back to All Night Fuji. The main party was again in the Red Marquee but we ended up dancing at the Ganban/MTV stage and meeting a load of people including a group meeting a load of people including a group of guys from Hong Kong and a Scottish guy I'd met in the toilet queue the first day. Was so good it was hard to drag ourselves away but we had to join the queue for the first bus at 5am, in order to catch a train at 6.30am, so as to be at the pier for 9.30am and catch the ferry home, and our tent wasn't even packed up! Finally pulled ourselves away from the party which was still in full swing only to get sucked into the bar next to the camp site. The Aussie guy I mentioned earlier had told us they had a live peep show so popped in to check it out and ended up staying till about 4.20am, dancing on the bar (the peep show had already ended). We were now running serously behind schedule, but as luck would have it as we were powering up towards our tent we met my Scottish friend and roped him into helping us pack the camp up. While I manically stuffed everything into my back pack, he and Chika got the tent down and we were on our way to the bus stop within 10 mins. Joined the queue at 4.40 and it was massive, In the end we made it onto our train with literally seconds to spare. In the event of missing it we could have got a bullet train, but would have cost over double (another 20 quid or so). Iwouldn't have minded really as I haven't ridden one yet and its on my list of things to do in Japan before I leave but in the end we didn't need to. Next time.



I was actually really looking forward to getting back on the ferry to chill out, and best of all have a nice long hot bath in the Onsen. Met back up with Kanae and also her sister and her boss at HMV. We all had a catch up in our room, (boat was busier but again we had a room to ourselves plus an Irish girl Bree. Then hit the onsen and it was great! Went for a kip and woke up in the afternoon to find Kanae sneaking out the room with a bottle of Jack Daniels. Went to join her on the deck where there were a group of people from the festival all drinking together. We were the last standing, and kept accumulatig more and more booze and snacks as others left. Most of us caled it a day about 10pm (just before lights out), as I had to work the next day but Kanae powered on right through the night - she is a machine!

Overall had a good time. In comparison to UK festivals, Fuji was amazingly clean. People took all their waste to the recycling points, even holding onto plastic cups and bottles and as a result there was almost nothing on the ground! The toilets were Japanese style (front facing squat). If they blocked even a little they weren't used, and there was a constant supply of loo roll. Fuji is probably Japan's biggest International Festival but they didn't manage to get so many current big names - in fact most of the British acts I saw were guys I was listening to 10 years ago; Jarvis, Ocean Colour Scene, Ash, Happy Mondays, Chemicals, Beastie Boys... and I'd seen most of them live before so heaps of nostalgia (Natsukashii yo! as they would say in Japan).
People kept to their own groups more and there wasn't the craziness of a good T in the Park but after making the effort on the last day met some cool people. People here didn't crash out either - no, they decided they were a little sleepy, laid down their groundsheet or put down their chair, wrapped a blanket around themselves and had a little rest. Not even that much drunkeness to begin with - yep, pretty different.

Kyoto

Just back from a short trip to Kyoto - the old capital of Japan. I got a 3 day package, flights and hotel. Friday was up bright and early to get the 8.30am bus to Chitose Airport (Sapporo). My flight was leaving 10.50am, getting me into Kansai around 1pm. From there I had to make my way into Kyoto. I had 3 options, express train, local train, or limousine bus. I hadn't doen any research into this part, so quickly checked the board above the bank of ticket machines at teh train station, then jogged downstairs to check out the bus, and seeing the train was cheaper ran back up again. It was only after buying my ticket, going through the barrier and asking the platform staff where to catch it that I realised I had booked passage on the slow route - first to Osaka, then change trains and onto Kyoto Station. I had hoped to be able to check out Nijo Castle that day so teh slowness was excruciating as my chances of doing anything on arrival in Kyoto grew slimmer and slimmer.

I arrived in Kyoto Station in the rain, and once orientated, got the subway to the area my hotel was in. I arrived at the front desk 3.45 and my first question was what time Nijo castle closed - answer 4pm. Was a little frustrated as I had so little time in Kyoto and was determined to pack in as much as I could. Had a quick change in my room then went back to the front desk to ask for some advice on where I could go. They gave me an area map and bus map and sent me off towards Gion. Gion was traditionally Kyoto's Geisha district (although in Kyoto the term used is Geiko. An apprentice geisha is called Maiko) From my hotel it was a straight road east down Shijo Street, one of teh main thoroughfares of the city. The first half of the journey is like any other Japanese shopping Street, albeit a fairly upperend one, with Louis Vitton and Daimaru department store. From the Kama River it gets more interesting. The River itself is lined with restaurants with platforms extending out from their backs providing really scenic riverside dining. Extending East towards Maruyama Park and the Yasaka Shrine Shijo Street is now lined with Japanese lanterns and teh clothes shops now mix with more restuarants and souvenier shops.

I used the last of the sunlight to have a walk around maruyama park, the shrines and tearooms were now closed but it was a nice walk. Chika had reccomended going to Gion Corner which holds twice nightly shows at 7 and 8. The venue is located among the backstreets south of Shijo Street between the river and the park. Behind plain wooden fronts are the exclusive restaurants and teahouses where teh Geiko and Maiko entertain their clients. As a result this is prime geisha spottingh territory, and while looking for Gion Corner I saw no less than 4, moving gracefully from door to door while tourists snap away at them.

The show at Gion Corner provides and overview of Japanese traditional arts and entertainment In a single 50 min sitting you can experience Chado(tea ceremony), Koto (Japanese harp), Kado (flower arrangement), Gagaku (Court Music), Kyogen (Comic plays), Kyomai (Maiko performing Kyoto style dance), and Bunraku (Puppet Play). After I went upstairs to learn about tea ceremony before a cheap dinner and a walk back to the hotel. Back at the hotel, I changed into my yukata (Japanese style robe) and went downstairs to use the hot bath and massage chairs before bed.

Next morning I was up at 6.30am for teh hotel breakfast which starts at 7. I was out by 7.30 and at the first temple a bit after 8am. That day I saw Ryoanji Temple (Zen garden), Kinkakuji and Ninnaji in the North West. North of the city centre and off a main Road was Daitokuji with a wonderfully peaceful and quiet zen garden. From there I moved over to the East of the city for an afternoon including Ginkakuji, the Philosophers Walk (a scenic path alongside a small canal lined with cute little cafes and shops and backstreets full of character to explore), and Nanzenji Temple. Impressed at how much I'd managed to see, I decided to try and fit in a Maiko Makeover. I'd jotted down a few places on teh hotel's internet the night before so chose one and set off to teh Kiyomizudera area to check it out. This is another main tourist area just South of Gion. The Kiyomizudera is inteh running to be named as one of the "New 7 Wonders of the World" and the hill leading up to it is a maze of picturesque streets and alleys, dotted with shops, cafes, restaurants and small temples.

The studio was able to take me in straight away. After choosing my plan, they gave me a white cotton gown and tabi socks and showed me the locker rooms to change in. once undergarments were donned, it was upstairs for the make up - white face, red rimmed eyes and thick red paint on the lips. Next was down one floor to pick a kimono, then wait in line to be dressed before beinbg taken into teh studio for the shots. After teh official photos, the long trailing kimono is hitched up and you're free to don the high Japanese clogs and go out into the street behind the studio to take your own photos. The photographer came with me as I was alone to take some snaps with my camera, and also got a group shot with the 4 girls ahead of me. After that it was time to get undressed and de-maikoed, then a short wait to be presented with my hoto alboum (6 shots).

Walked back to Gion and had a slightly more expensive dinner before heading back towards the hotel. The Kama River was jumping as I walked past. The restaurants platforms were full of diners and below, groups of people were sittting by the river, some drinking beer. There were 3 guys with guitars performing and a generally good atmosphere. I guess it must be a popular gathering spot, especially in summer. Was back at the hotel just after 10. Quick bath and a lounge in my yukata reading teh teachings of buddha (the Japanese answer to the hotel Gideons) before bed.

Sunday was an even earlier rise (6am), as breakfast opened from 6.30. I checked out of my room and ate till bursting point (gotta make teh most of it eh). Headed back to Kiyomizudera as it had been closed when I came out of the Maiko Studio the day before. It opens from 6am but at just before 8, I practicaly had the place to myself. From there I headed further South to the Fushimi Inari Shrine - a hillside littered with hundreds of red tori gates lined up in snaking walkways. At the mid way point I stopped for a bowl of Kitsune soba. Wasn't in the least hungry but its their speciality and got to sit on a platform overlooking the mountain and the red trail of gates, for a lot cheaper than eating at Kama River. Started back up and at the next break got a great view over the city. There was one section left to climb. I started up it but being pushed for time so started downhill, took a path of to the side and as the toris and tourists got fewer and fewer found myself alone going through a woodland path with areas of bamboo towering over me. eventually emerged onto a nondescript street. Turned out to be a very picturesque little neighbourhood but teh streets were a total maze, and had to ask directions at every turn but turned out I was walking distance from my next destination, Tofukuji. This was Chika's favourite and has a famous Zen Garden but I was a little disappointed by the wooden bannisters obscuring the view - not Zen. I'd planned on spending a relaxing contemplative half hour to an hour there after all my walking but the atmosphere was not conducive so I moved on, intending to head straight for Nijo Castle, my final destination. However on the road leading down from Tofukuji, I stumbled across Sesshu-ji Temple. Its a small family temple surrounded on 4 sides by Zen gardens. Visitors have free reign to the house and its painted panels. I got some macha tea and picked a spot overlookingh the smallest garden - Zen heaven at last!

My final stop was Nijo castle (originally intended as my first). Turned out my timing was impeccable. I toured round the palace twice before leasurely strolling round the gardens (teh route around both is clearly marked out with all other areas closed off - no free reign here) and emerged at exactly the time I'd planned to leave. The inner palace was just like a set of a samurai movie and I could get a great picture of the shogun, lorda and coutriers going about their business.

So, that was Kyoto. Could definitely have done with another day or two but think I managed to get a good overview. Was also pretty lucky with the weather. Rain had been forecast, and summer is renowned for being horribly hot and sticky. However it rained only as I was arriving and leaving, with Saturday compltely dry, even sunny and the humidity wasn't half as bad as I'd expected.

Harajuku

Kamakura

Kamakura

I took a spontaneous daytrip here, on Rachel's reccomendation, knowing nothing about it other than there was a "big buddha". It was about an hours ride out on the train, and on arrival I picked up a map at the tourist information and realised that there was at least a full day of sight seeing. I, however, only had about 3 hours so the woman at Tourist Informatiomn circled three of the thirty odd attractions shown on the map and set me on my way.

My first stop was the Kosokuji/Hase-dera Temple, a buddhist temple compound spread over 2 levels. There are several halls, containing statues of various bodhisattvas, From the top there is a viewing platform looking over Yuigahama Beach, and on the steps back down you pass by rows of little stone statues, some wearing knitted caps or scarves. Their purpose is to comfort the souls of unborn children. Back at the far end of the lower level there is a cave, containing images carved out of rock, and hunreds of small wooden carvings.

Next stop was the big buddha - at 13.45m tall the second biggest in Japan! Didn't have time to fit in any more temples but was sure to make it to the beach - not quite Thailand but the only beach I've come across in Japan. Overal a nice day out, a bit of a tourist trap but a worthwhile day trip from Tokyo and I'd definitley go back and explore a bit more.

Daikanyama

Daikanyama

Daikanyama

I unwittingly stumbled upon this great little area just after arriving in Shibuya. I got into Shibuya around 4pm but wasn't meeting Frank, Nicola and Rachel till nine, so I stuffed my backpack and jacket into a locker and began to walk a little aimlessly while working out how to spend the next few hours. I had a vague idea about walking to Harajuku, one stop away (more about Harajuku later) but not knowing exactly how to go about it set about following the train line. Shortly after setting off, I got a message from Yoshi, a Japanese guy I know from when he spent a year living in Glasgow. He told me he could meet me in Shibuya, at 5.30 pm, leaving me 45 mins to explore...


After half an hour of strolling, I turned back to meet Yoshi back at Shibuya Station. When he suggested a coffee, I had just the place in mind....a long, squat cafe, with classy leather sofas and armchairs, and at the far end floor to ceiling windows looked out over the railway track and the trains whizzing by every few minutes...





Over the next few days, I visited Daikanyama several times, making new discoveries each time. On Saturday I found myself once again with time to kill while waiting for Chika to arrive in Shibuya from Sapporo. She had been due to land at 2.30pm but due to snow in Sapporo, first her bus and then the flight were delayed. I came back to Shibuya from a day trip to Kamakura with no idea how long I would have to wait, and her phone turned off. From Kamakura, I exited Shibuya via the "New South exit" and set off blindly on foot. I again stayed close to the railway, coming across more graffiti art adorning tunnels and underpasses. Next to a slightly shady underpass, a bank of vending machines caught my eyes - for the first time, I saw among the soft drinks and beer machines, a unit selling full bottles of whisky and shouchu (Japanese spirit)....

2nd from the left - check out the attempt at trying to smash it in!

I foubnd myself in what I figured to be the centre of town via a maze of alleys dotted with designer boutiques and packed with character. Emerging onto a main street, it was a lot posher but still pretty cool. I didn't see the Starbucks or the Gaultier flagship store though I have since read of their existence. Guess I only grazed the surface...

okonomiyaki

Last night had my first try at okonomiyaki. I have to admit I'm not the biggest fan but it's still something Japanese to check off the list...



The okonomiyaki is cooked on a hot plate built into the table. It's a lumpy mixture of cabbage, meat and ginger coated in batter. In some places you cook it yourself but here it was done for us.

Once cooked, an egg is cracked onto the hot plate, and the okonmiyaki placed on top of it, when it is flipped again, there is a smooth base on which to spread the toppings. The server turns the grill off and leaves us to it. There are 3 sauces - sweet, medium hot, and hot, plus mayonnaise, nori and fish flakes. Due to my fussiness, we only added the sauces on the grill and the other girls added the rest on the plate.

Genghis Khan

Got a message from my flatmate Jackie while I was at work in Tomakomai (a 40 min express train ride from Sapporo) asking if I would like to go for Genghis Khan - and that it would be FREE!

There are 2 main venues for Genghis Khan - The Sapporo Beer Factory and the Kirin Beer Factory. We went to the latter. I had never been before but had been wanting to chexk it out ever since I camew to Japan so I jumped at the chance. Another Nova English teacher - Kim, is about to leave for Tokyo so her boyfriend's boss offered to treat her and her friends as a goodbye present. My friend Aika also came along - she has just moved to Sapporo from Kushiro.

The Genghis Khan is served in a large open hall. Each table has a hot plate set into the centre. Meats (generally lamb) is served raw with cabbage and shoots to go, and you cook your own at the table. Our host for teh evening insisted on getting the best of everything so we had the premium meat deal (all you can eat) and the premium drinks deal (all you can drink with everything on the menu included) , plus salads and sushi extra. Our beer was served in a "tower" with a tap to pull our own. Left with a very full stomach.