Back downtown

Woke up today and the sky was clear blue. Checked online that there was no rain due (the weather here can be more changeable than Scotland!), then decided to get myself in gear and make the most of it. I left the house aiming to catch the 10.45am bus to the National Park. Saw it coming just as I arrived at the bus stop, and didn't have time to chain my bike. There was 3 hours till the next one so carried on into town.

I first went to a small park in the city, that I spied from the bus last week. It's centrepiece is a fountain (not on) with a sculpture of some children perched a top. Lay back on one of the surrounding benches with my book and did a bit if sunbathing. I think the Japanese workers there were pretty bemused...

From there took a walk along through the entertainment district. Completely dead in the day but comes alive at night when all the restaurants, izekayahs and hostess bars open. The food in the photo is plastic. It is standard practise for restaurants to place models of each dish, with price, in the window, some of them can be pretty realistic. Even McDonalds next to my work has a foam mock up of a value meal, sitting on a table by the entrance.

I carried onto Nasumai Bridge and then up to Nasumai park, perched on a grass summit overlooking the town centre. Had never noticed it there before, quite zen, with little paths and trees and statues overlooking the city...

Brown Bears!

Not exactly the sign you want to see when about to enter said nature trail. Especially when alone and equipped with neither whistle, bell nor radio. I considered going to ask the staff at the visitors centre for advice, but decided that my newly found ability to tell them my brothers' birthdays and that my dad's hobby is golf, while pretty impressive, probably wouldn't help much in this situation. As I stood at the mouth of the trail contemplating my next move, two 'salarymen' emerged, followed soon after by a couple with a baby in a buggy. None had the air of a person who has just survived a close encounter with a brown bear, and so, somewhat gingerly, I went in....

It was my day off, and once again, I had come out to the Kushiro marshlands. As you may recall from previous post, this is an area of protected wetlands roughly the size of Tokyo, and habitat of the Tancho (Japanese red crested crane). The nature walk I was about to embark on comprises a 2.5km circle trail built from wooden decking. The foliage is pretty dense and vast. The first 800 metres I walked without seeing a soul, and as I went along, whistling every 5 seconds, I found my mind wandering to contemplate how long it would be before anyone realised I'd been mauled by a bear and that the warning notice really could have given a little bit of advice on what to do should you actually do spot one?

At the first observation point, the trail branches off and leads down towards the site of an old railway track. This is now used as a hiking trail connecting to the Onnenai visitors Centre 3 km away. I was pretty keen on trying the hike, but as I set out, I was suddenly hit with the certainty that this was perfect brown bear territory, and I maybe wasn't quite up for a 3km hike in the wilderness, and so turned back to the relative safety of the wooden decking. Wouldn't have had time to hike out there and back before the return bus anyway. Back following the circle, I gradually began to come across more tourists. The first group were ringing away on their bear bell, but I subsequently came across a few maverick lone walkers.

At the halfway point, was the 'satellite lookout' which gave a great view out over the marshlands. I got some good photos (which I'm going to stick on bebo), and also managed to strike up a conversation with 2 girls from Tokyo. I finally emerged after just over 2 hours, and no, I never did see a bear....

For info on Kushiro marsh/ tancho cranes - http://web-japan.org/atlas/nature/nat16.html

Typhoons and Earthquakes

A typhoon has been working its way through Japan the past week. There was substantial damage and some deaths further south, but as is usual, by the time it reached Hokkeido it had weakened considerably. In the end it didn't reach as far east as Kushiro, but we still got heavy rain Yesterday. Now the typhoon has passed, the whole country is now basking in sunshine. Won't last for long though. The autumn equinox (Sept 23), marks the start of the slide to winter. Off tomorrow, so planning a daytrip to an observatory in the marshlands.

Apparently there was also an earthquake measuring 3.5 in Kushiro yesterday afternoon, though I didn't feel a thing.

Out and about in Kushiro

Spent today trying to catch up on computer stuff and Japanese studying. Took a walk over to the supermarket in the afternoon. It's a public holiday this week (still working though), and the massage chairs in Jusco have been moved to make way for a selection of stands selling very traditional Japanese stuff. Made a few wee purchases already.

Here's a few photos I took out and about in Kushiro over the last week...

Japanese style toilet

Nasumai Bridge, there are 4 scupltures, one representing each season, perched on the railings

The "Moo" and "Egg" complexes, one is a winter garden, the other houses retail, dining and leisure facilities

View of the river from "Moo"

Japanese Supermarket chain...nudge, nudge, wink, wink...

Right, I'm off for a bath at the Cento, until next time.....for those on Ringo and Bebo, there'll be some more photos there.

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park

Wednesday, took the train out to see the Kushiro marshlands. Kushiro Shitsugen is the largest wetland in Japan, about the size of Tokyo, and has been given National Park status since 1987. It is the home of lots of wildlife, most famously the red crested white crane - a symbol of Japan and protected species. I took the Noroko Go tourist train, which takes a route through the marshlands and has wood finished, viewing carriages. All looked great until I realised that my ticket was for the unreserved carriage stuck at the end, which is duller than a Scotrail carriage and with mean little square windows. Was only on it for 20 mins before arriving at Kushiro Shitsugen Station, and didn't miss much really.

The station has a quaint little wooden waiting room(see above), which everyone both on and off the train immediately started taking photos of. After the initial camera rush, everyone headed off for the next photo opportunity, and I was left alone. There was a staircase leading uphill towards a couple of viewing points from which to look out over the marshlands. Got a few photos then headed off up a long windy, bumpy road leading nowhere. Found a few tracks leading into the wilderness, and one came out into a clearing with 3 deer standing on the slope. Really peaceful, with white butterflies fluttering about, dragonflies buzzing and the odd yelp of a deer (sounds a bit like a puppy). Started raining, had my brother's old North Face jacket to protect me, but was getting hungry and rain getting heavier so turned back. Didn't realise quite how far I'd walked, but eventually made it back to the lookout points, by which time the rain was pounding, and took shelter under a wooden rotunda.

Set off into the rain again in search of the visitor's lounge and coffee shop, and was pleasantly surprised to find it just round the corner. Headed straight for the bathroom and when I came out the rain was now falling in sheets. Visitors lounge was unsurprisingly rather full. Its a wooden building with comfy seats positioned around an unlit furnace, and a tv playing dvds about the National Park. Had a pizza and a coffee, the rain stopped, people started leaving, and realising there was a train back soon, headed back to the station. The train home was one of the regular local trains - only one carriage, quite a funny looking thing really.

Welcome night

My 'Welcome to Kushiro' Night was held last Sunday. The whole Nova staff (all five of us) went for a "yaki-niku" at a restaurant about 10 mins walk from my apartment. "Yaki-niku" originated in Korea, but is popular throughout Japan. Each table has a barbecue grill set into it. There is a wide range of different meats, which are served raw and thinly sliced on platters. The Japanese staff did the ordering for us and we had lamb, chicken, plus a mixed platter, containing tongue! Also raw vegetables, sliced daikon (Japanese radish) and okonomiyaki (Japanese pizza or pancake with egg, cabbage and meat). Last but not least, a small portion of raw beef - lovely!

After dessert, we headed to Shusan, our local Izakaya (Japanese bar serving food). It's run by a brother and sister and all the Nova staff drink there. I'd already heard about it from the guys at Sapporo, and there's a Newcastle flag on the wall, donated by a previous teacher. Its really small and cosy with some seats along the bar, and a raised platform with four low tables and floor cushions. Me, Jen and Gregg got a bottle of Shochu each at 12 quid a go. Its a clear spirit, about 25% and slightly flavoured, drunk with ice and water. They put a label round the neck with your name on it and its waiting for you next time you come back.

After a few drinks, started on karaoke. All the songs are stored in a handheld electronic device which gets past around. You make your choice, hit enter, poining at the box, under one of the 2 plasma screens mounted on the wall, and it brings it up automatically for you. A couple of handheld mikes get passed around and you sing at your table. I started with the Arctic Monkeys, and finished with Daft Punk, with The Doors, Chemical Bros and Gorillaz in between.

more photos

Sapporo town centre.

This is the view from a bridge in Sapporo. The cars are generally compact and dinky like this one, or massive big slinky beasts. (photo of beast to follow in near future)

On the subway

Japanese baths

The rain never did stop yesterday, just got worse. Was confined to the apartment, apart from a quick nip back to Jusco to get some food for dinner. After coming out the checkout, stopped off at the display of massaging chairs. They're in the middle of the store, no sales assistant, just sit back and relax (the Japanese people do it too, it's quite normal). I plumped for a big red leather one and it was amazing. Like 4 people pummelling at you at once, it has a remote control with loads of different programmes. It does yoir head, neck, all down your back, and even squeezes and massages all down your legs.

Rained all through the night and through to this morning but brightened up about 12 and I bicycled into town to have a look around. In the evening, went to the 'cento' - a japanese bathhouse. There's seperate sections for men and women. you go into the changing room and strip completely naked before entering. In the main room is a big hot tub with fountain in the middle and a jaccuzi. all round the wall are washing stations with stools and shower heads, and you have to wash thoroughly with soap and shampoo before getting in. My flatmate told me that the women would be watching to make sure I washed properly but they didn't pay all that much attention to me really. She also told me that if you had a tattoo you would likely be ejected! Upstairs, there are several more tubs, and best of all, an outdoor tub on the roof with a Japanese rock garden, bare trees dotted around and a little waterfall in the corner. I had it to myself for ages. Was quite a strange feeling lying there completely naked on top of a roof behind a shopping mall!

rainy day off

Have completed my first five day week at work and after 2 lovely sunny days in a row, which I missed, I have a day off with no sky on show and constant drizzle. I went out in the afternoon and finally bought myself a camera, so will try and post some photos soon. After that had a proper look round the mall I work in, and home again for lunch.

Off to go play with my camera and do some Japanese study, hopefully the weather'll be a bit better tomorrow and I can get out and about on my bicycle.

konnichiwa!

Been in Japan for just over a week now. I arrived in Sapporo, Hokkeido, a week last Thursday. Flew into Tokyo where I was met by a Nova representative. My luggage was being forwarded onto Hokkeido by courier, and I was told to quickly take what I needed as my bags wouldn't arrive for another 2 days! Flew onto Sapporo and was met at the airport by my AAM (Assistant Area Manager)Steve, a kiwi guy who stopped off in Tokyo for 3 weeks on his way home from travelling - that was about 15 years ago. (Not planning to stay quite so long myelf but we'll see how it goes). He escorted me to my temporary apartment by train and it was at this point I discovered that I wasn't actually to be based in Sapporo, but Kushiro 300km East.

My temporary flatmate in Sapporo was on holiday so I had the place to myself for a few days. After getting dropped off by Steve about 10pm went out on the street for some takeaway gyoza(little dumplings) curry sauce and rice, followed by a Japanese style bath (very deep and hot) and straight to bed. Realised just at this point that I hadn't packed any business wear for going to the office the next day, the result being I got a day off in Sapporo before starting training to allow my case, and suitable clothing to arrive. I spent it having a walk through Nakajima park just near the apartment where there were several female choral groups rehearsing, then catching a bus out to a sculpture park which was fantastic.

Had four days training at the Sapporo branch. All the teachers there were male, and most had beeen living there for years. My American temporary flatmate Jackie got back from Thailand on the Sunday with her parents who were over on holiday. Sunday night we all had a barbecue down by the river with some other English teachers. The area we picked also popular with amorous young Japanese couples and groups of people letting off fireworks randomly(?).

Got through training alright but didn't really come across any real opportunities for socialising. I did meet one guy when I went out for something to eat my 2nd night. He told me about a club that on every Sunday 10pm to 10am playing drum 'n' bass, trance and other dance music but didn't do it.

Got the train to Kushiro on Thursday, about 4 1/2 hours, lots of green, and towards the end the train followed the coast at intervals. The train wasn't much different to those at homes but did the tilting thing which was pretty cool. Also everytime the girls came through with their trolley, when they got to the end of the carriage, they would stop, turn and bow to us all before leaving.

Kushiro is a very spread out city but pretty provincial and not a whole lot going on compared to other Japanese cities. My apartment is about 20 mins from the centre, a 5 min walk away from a massive shopping mall, where my Nova branch is located. The supermarket there is huuge - and I don't have a clue what half the stuff in it actually is. The apartment is pretty new, with an open plan kitchen/living area, 2 bedrooms, futon beds, a bath/shower room and seperate toilet. There is a little storage are at the front door to slip off outdoor shoes and slip into little slippers with bamboo insoles (if desired), and best of all...internet access. Probably one of the main perks of being so bloody remote.

I work with a Canadian guy Gregg, and Aussie girl Jen (who I share the flat with). There's also 2 Japanese girls working there, and on my 2nd day one of them took me into town to complete my alien registration, open a bank account and get a mobile 0081 (0)8032353616 if you fancy giving me a call or a message.

Last night there was a fireworks festival which we all went down to after work. They were being set off down by the river. It was pretty busy and loads of food stands..hotdogs, yakitori(meat on a stick), squid on a stick, noodles, popcorn, and even KFC and Pizza hut. Also quite a lot of girls, and a few guys too, had got dressed up in kimono. My camera is knackered but got a load of photos on my phone, though can't really do much with them. Afterwards there was a procession with floats carried by about 10 people each side. On top were soem kids all dressed up and a guy at the front throwing sweets into the. Watched for a bit then retired to an Izekaya (Japanese bar/restaurant) where I tried my first taste of sake. The waitress brings a small teacup in a bowl then pours sake into the cup until it overflows and the bowl is also full to the brim. It knocks your head off!

I realise this is turning into a bit of an epic so will sign off for the moment and keep updating with short snippets. Hoping to get a camera in the next few days so will hopefully be able to get some pictures on soon.

Ja matane! (see you later)