Kyoto

Just back from a short trip to Kyoto - the old capital of Japan. I got a 3 day package, flights and hotel. Friday was up bright and early to get the 8.30am bus to Chitose Airport (Sapporo). My flight was leaving 10.50am, getting me into Kansai around 1pm. From there I had to make my way into Kyoto. I had 3 options, express train, local train, or limousine bus. I hadn't doen any research into this part, so quickly checked the board above the bank of ticket machines at teh train station, then jogged downstairs to check out the bus, and seeing the train was cheaper ran back up again. It was only after buying my ticket, going through the barrier and asking the platform staff where to catch it that I realised I had booked passage on the slow route - first to Osaka, then change trains and onto Kyoto Station. I had hoped to be able to check out Nijo Castle that day so teh slowness was excruciating as my chances of doing anything on arrival in Kyoto grew slimmer and slimmer.

I arrived in Kyoto Station in the rain, and once orientated, got the subway to the area my hotel was in. I arrived at the front desk 3.45 and my first question was what time Nijo castle closed - answer 4pm. Was a little frustrated as I had so little time in Kyoto and was determined to pack in as much as I could. Had a quick change in my room then went back to the front desk to ask for some advice on where I could go. They gave me an area map and bus map and sent me off towards Gion. Gion was traditionally Kyoto's Geisha district (although in Kyoto the term used is Geiko. An apprentice geisha is called Maiko) From my hotel it was a straight road east down Shijo Street, one of teh main thoroughfares of the city. The first half of the journey is like any other Japanese shopping Street, albeit a fairly upperend one, with Louis Vitton and Daimaru department store. From the Kama River it gets more interesting. The River itself is lined with restaurants with platforms extending out from their backs providing really scenic riverside dining. Extending East towards Maruyama Park and the Yasaka Shrine Shijo Street is now lined with Japanese lanterns and teh clothes shops now mix with more restuarants and souvenier shops.

I used the last of the sunlight to have a walk around maruyama park, the shrines and tearooms were now closed but it was a nice walk. Chika had reccomended going to Gion Corner which holds twice nightly shows at 7 and 8. The venue is located among the backstreets south of Shijo Street between the river and the park. Behind plain wooden fronts are the exclusive restaurants and teahouses where teh Geiko and Maiko entertain their clients. As a result this is prime geisha spottingh territory, and while looking for Gion Corner I saw no less than 4, moving gracefully from door to door while tourists snap away at them.

The show at Gion Corner provides and overview of Japanese traditional arts and entertainment In a single 50 min sitting you can experience Chado(tea ceremony), Koto (Japanese harp), Kado (flower arrangement), Gagaku (Court Music), Kyogen (Comic plays), Kyomai (Maiko performing Kyoto style dance), and Bunraku (Puppet Play). After I went upstairs to learn about tea ceremony before a cheap dinner and a walk back to the hotel. Back at the hotel, I changed into my yukata (Japanese style robe) and went downstairs to use the hot bath and massage chairs before bed.

Next morning I was up at 6.30am for teh hotel breakfast which starts at 7. I was out by 7.30 and at the first temple a bit after 8am. That day I saw Ryoanji Temple (Zen garden), Kinkakuji and Ninnaji in the North West. North of the city centre and off a main Road was Daitokuji with a wonderfully peaceful and quiet zen garden. From there I moved over to the East of the city for an afternoon including Ginkakuji, the Philosophers Walk (a scenic path alongside a small canal lined with cute little cafes and shops and backstreets full of character to explore), and Nanzenji Temple. Impressed at how much I'd managed to see, I decided to try and fit in a Maiko Makeover. I'd jotted down a few places on teh hotel's internet the night before so chose one and set off to teh Kiyomizudera area to check it out. This is another main tourist area just South of Gion. The Kiyomizudera is inteh running to be named as one of the "New 7 Wonders of the World" and the hill leading up to it is a maze of picturesque streets and alleys, dotted with shops, cafes, restaurants and small temples.

The studio was able to take me in straight away. After choosing my plan, they gave me a white cotton gown and tabi socks and showed me the locker rooms to change in. once undergarments were donned, it was upstairs for the make up - white face, red rimmed eyes and thick red paint on the lips. Next was down one floor to pick a kimono, then wait in line to be dressed before beinbg taken into teh studio for the shots. After teh official photos, the long trailing kimono is hitched up and you're free to don the high Japanese clogs and go out into the street behind the studio to take your own photos. The photographer came with me as I was alone to take some snaps with my camera, and also got a group shot with the 4 girls ahead of me. After that it was time to get undressed and de-maikoed, then a short wait to be presented with my hoto alboum (6 shots).

Walked back to Gion and had a slightly more expensive dinner before heading back towards the hotel. The Kama River was jumping as I walked past. The restaurants platforms were full of diners and below, groups of people were sittting by the river, some drinking beer. There were 3 guys with guitars performing and a generally good atmosphere. I guess it must be a popular gathering spot, especially in summer. Was back at the hotel just after 10. Quick bath and a lounge in my yukata reading teh teachings of buddha (the Japanese answer to the hotel Gideons) before bed.

Sunday was an even earlier rise (6am), as breakfast opened from 6.30. I checked out of my room and ate till bursting point (gotta make teh most of it eh). Headed back to Kiyomizudera as it had been closed when I came out of the Maiko Studio the day before. It opens from 6am but at just before 8, I practicaly had the place to myself. From there I headed further South to the Fushimi Inari Shrine - a hillside littered with hundreds of red tori gates lined up in snaking walkways. At the mid way point I stopped for a bowl of Kitsune soba. Wasn't in the least hungry but its their speciality and got to sit on a platform overlooking the mountain and the red trail of gates, for a lot cheaper than eating at Kama River. Started back up and at the next break got a great view over the city. There was one section left to climb. I started up it but being pushed for time so started downhill, took a path of to the side and as the toris and tourists got fewer and fewer found myself alone going through a woodland path with areas of bamboo towering over me. eventually emerged onto a nondescript street. Turned out to be a very picturesque little neighbourhood but teh streets were a total maze, and had to ask directions at every turn but turned out I was walking distance from my next destination, Tofukuji. This was Chika's favourite and has a famous Zen Garden but I was a little disappointed by the wooden bannisters obscuring the view - not Zen. I'd planned on spending a relaxing contemplative half hour to an hour there after all my walking but the atmosphere was not conducive so I moved on, intending to head straight for Nijo Castle, my final destination. However on the road leading down from Tofukuji, I stumbled across Sesshu-ji Temple. Its a small family temple surrounded on 4 sides by Zen gardens. Visitors have free reign to the house and its painted panels. I got some macha tea and picked a spot overlookingh the smallest garden - Zen heaven at last!

My final stop was Nijo castle (originally intended as my first). Turned out my timing was impeccable. I toured round the palace twice before leasurely strolling round the gardens (teh route around both is clearly marked out with all other areas closed off - no free reign here) and emerged at exactly the time I'd planned to leave. The inner palace was just like a set of a samurai movie and I could get a great picture of the shogun, lorda and coutriers going about their business.

So, that was Kyoto. Could definitely have done with another day or two but think I managed to get a good overview. Was also pretty lucky with the weather. Rain had been forecast, and summer is renowned for being horribly hot and sticky. However it rained only as I was arriving and leaving, with Saturday compltely dry, even sunny and the humidity wasn't half as bad as I'd expected.