norma-in-japan

Monday, August 20, 2007

Fuji photos

Fuji Rock 07

Didn't make a final decision on going to this until the day before leaving Hokkaido. I'd sorted the days off a few weeks before just in case but wasn't convinced if I wanted to pay all the money - tickets and travel alone topped 60,000円 (about 265 quid!) With spending money added it worked pretty expensive but once in a lifetime an all that.



The festival was held at Naeba ski resort (kinda) near Nigata(which suffered a bad earthquake not so long before). We got the ferry from Otaru to Nigata which runs twice daily and takes 20 hours. It was actually really comfortable, for the equivalent of 26 pound we got a one way 2nd class ticket. This gave us a space in a carpeted room (free choice) with blankets, pillows and cupboard space for 12 people. However the ferry was quiet so we were only sharing with one other girl. Her name was Kanae and she was also going to the festival. The ferry is equipped with a shop, cafe, restaurant, games centre, movie theatre (we watched a Japanese dubbed Keanu Reeves and Sandra Bullock move - Lake House), and best of all - Onsen (hot bath). It had been an early start so after getting acquainted with Kanae, had a nap, then got up for a wander around, watched the movie, sat outside with some snacks and beer, then had a bath (gazing out to sea), before dinner. After dinner we polished off a bottle of red wine me and Chika had brought, before going to bed. If you have the time, I think its a great way to travel.



We arrived at Nigata port about 6.30 am. From there we had to get a taxi to Nigata train Station, and 2 trains and a shuttle bus later we were there. The festival was on for three days - Friday, Saturday, Sunday. We got there about 11.30am Friday, not long after it had kicked off. The campsite we ended up with was a pretty long walk from the festival entrance but on the upside, was under a tree - vital for trying to get some morning kip. I'd lugged my futon mattress all the way from Sapporo, not much fun on the early morning subway but it was pretty damn comfy once installed so at least it was worth the effort.



The festival site had four 0r so areas dotted among forest and conected by boardwalks. In addition, the resort has the longest ropeway in the world and during the day, for a charge you could take the 20 minute ride and at the top find the Silent Breeze and Daydreaming areas. It was like a little Alice and Wonderland (ok that's taking it a bit far but there were ropeswings, flying foxes, seesaws, people dressed up as Pandas and lions, and a little ongoing dance party with dj's. Also a rather posh and expensive chalet restaurant to contrast. It was like its own contained mini festival.



Back at ground level, Day One I saw Jarvis Cocker, Ocean Colour Scene, Muse and the highlight Grove Armada. After Groove Armada we went to the furthest stage(Orange Court) for All Night Fuji, with dj's and pole dancers. Only made it till 1.30am, and left Chika to Tim Deluxe while I started the long walk back.



Day Two after our firstvisit to Silent Breeze and daydreaming, heard a bit of Kula Shaker on the ropeway back down, then watched Lily Allen, G Love, Ash and Beastie Boys. This time the All Night Fuji was in the Red Marquee, next to the Main Stage and closest to the exit. Simian Mobile Disco and Justice were the main Internatonal Dj's , and funnily enough, the next 2 sets, one Japanese and the other French, Ithink were also double acts... is djig with your mate where its at these days? Maybe me and Chka should put something together. Stayed till after 5am, with the last dj's still playing, ended up walking back with an Aussie guy I had met earlier in the night but we sent him back to his own tent after sharing a can of cocktail partner and managed to get a bit of kip (hurray for the tree)



Day Three following a bit more SB and Daydreaming caught the last song of Mika who prancing about with balloons and a giant Panda. Weather was a bit dreich so went back to the tent for a snooze and 10 minutes later there was an absolute downpour. Managed to drag myself out of the nice dry tent for the last half of the Happy Mondays, and Battles started getting prepared for the Chemical Brothers whom Chika had been waiting the whole festival for. Got some food, went to the toilet and checked out a bit of the VooREDOMS before heading back to the main stage in good time. Straight after their set headed back to the Green Stage to catch the end of Juno Reactor who were one of my highlights then back to All Night Fuji. The main party was again in the Red Marquee but we ended up dancing at the Ganban/MTV stage and meeting a load of people including a group meeting a load of people including a group of guys from Hong Kong and a Scottish guy I'd met in the toilet queue the first day. Was so good it was hard to drag ourselves away but we had to join the queue for the first bus at 5am, in order to catch a train at 6.30am, so as to be at the pier for 9.30am and catch the ferry home, and our tent wasn't even packed up! Finally pulled ourselves away from the party which was still in full swing only to get sucked into the bar next to the camp site. The Aussie guy I mentioned earlier had told us they had a live peep show so popped in to check it out and ended up staying till about 4.20am, dancing on the bar (the peep show had already ended). We were now running serously behind schedule, but as luck would have it as we were powering up towards our tent we met my Scottish friend and roped him into helping us pack the camp up. While I manically stuffed everything into my back pack, he and Chika got the tent down and we were on our way to the bus stop within 10 mins. Joined the queue at 4.40 and it was massive, In the end we made it onto our train with literally seconds to spare. In the event of missing it we could have got a bullet train, but would have cost over double (another 20 quid or so). Iwouldn't have minded really as I haven't ridden one yet and its on my list of things to do in Japan before I leave but in the end we didn't need to. Next time.



I was actually really looking forward to getting back on the ferry to chill out, and best of all have a nice long hot bath in the Onsen. Met back up with Kanae and also her sister and her boss at HMV. We all had a catch up in our room, (boat was busier but again we had a room to ourselves plus an Irish girl Bree. Then hit the onsen and it was great! Went for a kip and woke up in the afternoon to find Kanae sneaking out the room with a bottle of Jack Daniels. Went to join her on the deck where there were a group of people from the festival all drinking together. We were the last standing, and kept accumulatig more and more booze and snacks as others left. Most of us caled it a day about 10pm (just before lights out), as I had to work the next day but Kanae powered on right through the night - she is a machine!

Overall had a good time. In comparison to UK festivals, Fuji was amazingly clean. People took all their waste to the recycling points, even holding onto plastic cups and bottles and as a result there was almost nothing on the ground! The toilets were Japanese style (front facing squat). If they blocked even a little they weren't used, and there was a constant supply of loo roll. Fuji is probably Japan's biggest International Festival but they didn't manage to get so many current big names - in fact most of the British acts I saw were guys I was listening to 10 years ago; Jarvis, Ocean Colour Scene, Ash, Happy Mondays, Chemicals, Beastie Boys... and I'd seen most of them live before so heaps of nostalgia (Natsukashii yo! as they would say in Japan).
People kept to their own groups more and there wasn't the craziness of a good T in the Park but after making the effort on the last day met some cool people. People here didn't crash out either - no, they decided they were a little sleepy, laid down their groundsheet or put down their chair, wrapped a blanket around themselves and had a little rest. Not even that much drunkeness to begin with - yep, pretty different.