norma-in-japan

Fuji photos

2007-08-20T19:09:00.001-07:00

Fuji Rock 07

2007-08-20T07:18:00.000-07:00

Didn't make a final decision on going to this until the day before leaving Hokkaido. I'd sorted the days off a few weeks before just in case but wasn't convinced if I wanted to pay all the money - tickets and travel alone topped 60,000円 (about 265 quid!) With spending money added it worked pretty expensive but once in a lifetime an all that.

The festival was held at Naeba ski resort (kinda) near Nigata(which suffered a bad earthquake not so long before). We got the ferry from Otaru to Nigata which runs twice daily and takes 20 hours. It was actually really comfortable, for the equivalent of 26 pound we got a one way 2nd class ticket. This gave us a space in a carpeted room (free choice) with blankets, pillows and cupboard space for 12 people. However the ferry was quiet so we were only sharing with one other girl. Her name was Kanae and she was also going to the festival. The ferry is equipped with a shop, cafe, restaurant, games centre, movie theatre (we watched a Japanese dubbed Keanu Reeves and Sandra Bullock move - Lake House), and best of all - Onsen (hot bath). It had been an early start so after getting acquainted with Kanae, had a nap, then got up for a wander around, watched the movie, sat outside with some snacks and beer, then had a bath (gazing out to sea), before dinner. After dinner we polished off a bottle of red wine me and Chika had brought, before going to bed. If you have the time, I think its a great way to travel.

We arrived at Nigata port about 6.30 am. From there we had to get a taxi to Nigata train Station, and 2 trains and a shuttle bus later we were there. The festival was on for three days - Friday, Saturday, Sunday. We got there about 11.30am Friday, not long after it had kicked off. The campsite we ended up with was a pretty long walk from the festival entrance but on the upside, was under a tree - vital for trying to get some morning kip. I'd lugged my futon mattress all the way from Sapporo, not much fun on the early morning subway but it was pretty damn comfy once installed so at least it was worth the effort.

The festival site had four 0r so areas dotted among forest and conected by boardwalks. In addition, the resort has the longest ropeway in the world and during the day, for a charge you could take the 20 minute ride and at the top find the Silent Breeze and Daydreaming areas. It was like a little Alice and Wonderland (ok that's taking it a bit far but there were ropeswings, flying foxes, seesaws, people dressed up as Pandas and lions, and a little ongoing dance party with dj's. Also a rather posh and expensive chalet restaurant to contrast. It was like its own contained mini festival.

Back at ground level, Day One I saw Jarvis Cocker, Ocean Colour Scene, Muse and the highlight Grove Armada. After Groove Armada we went to the furthest stage(Orange Court) for All Night Fuji, with dj's and pole dancers. Only made it till 1.30am, and left Chika to Tim Deluxe while I started the long walk back.

Day Two after our firstvisit to Silent Breeze and daydreaming, heard a bit of Kula Shaker on the ropeway back down, then watched Lily Allen, G Love, Ash and Beastie Boys. This time the All Night Fuji was in the Red Marquee, next to the Main Stage and closest to the exit. Simian Mobile Disco and Justice were the main Internatonal Dj's , and funnily enough, the next 2 sets, one Japanese and the other French, Ithink were also double acts... is djig with your mate where its at these days? Maybe me and Chka should put something together. Stayed till after 5am, with the last dj's still playing, ended up walking back with an Aussie guy I had met earlier in the night but we sent him back to his own tent after sharing a can of cocktail partner and managed to get a bit of kip (hurray for the tree)

Day Three following a bit more SB and Daydreaming caught the last song of Mika who prancing about with balloons and a giant Panda. Weather was a bit dreich so went back to the tent for a snooze and 10 minutes later there was an absolute downpour. Managed to drag myself out of the nice dry tent for the last half of the Happy Mondays, and Battles started getting prepared for the Chemical Brothers whom Chika had been waiting the whole festival for. Got some food, went to the toilet and checked out a bit of the VooREDOMS before heading back to the main stage in good time. Straight after their set headed back to the Green Stage to catch the end of Juno Reactor who were one of my highlights then back to All Night Fuji. The main party was again in the Red Marquee but we ended up dancing at the Ganban/MTV stage and meeting a load of people including a group meeting a load of people including a group of guys from Hong Kong and a Scottish guy I'd met in the toilet queue the first day. Was so good it was hard to drag ourselves away but we had to join the queue for the first bus at 5am, in order to catch a train at 6.30am, so as to be at the pier for 9.30am and catch the ferry home, and our tent wasn't even packed up! Finally pulled ourselves away from the party which was still in full swing only to get sucked into the bar next to the camp site. The Aussie guy I mentioned earlier had told us they had a live peep show so popped in to check it out and ended up staying till about 4.20am, dancing on the bar (the peep show had already ended). We were now running serously behind schedule, but as luck would have it as we were powering up towards our tent we met my Scottish friend and roped him into helping us pack the camp up. While I manically stuffed everything into my back pack, he and Chika got the tent down and we were on our way to the bus stop within 10 mins. Joined the queue at 4.40 and it was massive, In the end we made it onto our train with literally seconds to spare. In the event of missing it we could have got a bullet train, but would have cost over double (another 20 quid or so). Iwouldn't have minded really as I haven't ridden one yet and its on my list of things to do in Japan before I leave but in the end we didn't need to. Next time.

I was actually really looking forward to getting back on the ferry to chill out, and best of all have a nice long hot bath in the Onsen. Met back up with Kanae and also her sister and her boss at HMV. We all had a catch up in our room, (boat was busier but again we had a room to ourselves plus an Irish girl Bree. Then hit the onsen and it was great! Went for a kip and woke up in the afternoon to find Kanae sneaking out the room with a bottle of Jack Daniels. Went to join her on the deck where there were a group of people from the festival all drinking together. We were the last standing, and kept accumulatig more and more booze and snacks as others left. Most of us caled it a day about 10pm (just before lights out), as I had to work the next day but Kanae powered on right through the night - she is a machine!

Overall had a good time. In comparison to UK festivals, Fuji was amazingly clean. People took all their waste to the recycling points, even holding onto plastic cups and bottles and as a result there was almost nothing on the ground! The toilets were Japanese style (front facing squat). If they blocked even a little they weren't used, and there was a constant supply of loo roll. Fuji is probably Japan's biggest International Festival but they didn't manage to get so many current big names - in fact most of the British acts I saw were guys I was listening to 10 years ago; Jarvis, Ocean Colour Scene, Ash, Happy Mondays, Chemicals, Beastie Boys... and I'd seen most of them live before so heaps of nostalgia (Natsukashii yo! as they would say in Japan).
People kept to their own groups more and there wasn't the craziness of a good T in the Park but after making the effort on the last day met some cool people. People here didn't crash out either - no, they decided they were a little sleepy, laid down their groundsheet or put down their chair, wrapped a blanket around themselves and had a little rest. Not even that much drunkeness to begin with - yep, pretty different.

Kyoto

2007-07-03T17:42:00.000-07:00

Just back from a short trip to Kyoto - the old capital of Japan. I got a 3 day package, flights and hotel. Friday was up bright and early to get the 8.30am bus to Chitose Airport (Sapporo). My flight was leaving 10.50am, getting me into Kansai around 1pm. From there I had to make my way into Kyoto. I had 3 options, express train, local train, or limousine bus. I hadn't doen any research into this part, so quickly checked the board above the bank of ticket machines at teh train station, then jogged downstairs to check out the bus, and seeing the train was cheaper ran back up again. It was only after buying my ticket, going through the barrier and asking the platform staff where to catch it that I realised I had booked passage on the slow route - first to Osaka, then change trains and onto Kyoto Station. I had hoped to be able to check out Nijo Castle that day so teh slowness was excruciating as my chances of doing anything on arrival in Kyoto grew slimmer and slimmer.

I arrived in Kyoto Station in the rain, and once orientated, got the subway to the area my hotel was in. I arrived at the front desk 3.45 and my first question was what time Nijo castle closed - answer 4pm. Was a little frustrated as I had so little time in Kyoto and was determined to pack in as much as I could. Had a quick change in my room then went back to the front desk to ask for some advice on where I could go. They gave me an area map and bus map and sent me off towards Gion. Gion was traditionally Kyoto's Geisha district (although in Kyoto the term used is Geiko. An apprentice geisha is called Maiko) From my hotel it was a straight road east down Shijo Street, one of teh main thoroughfares of the city. The first half of the journey is like any other Japanese shopping Street, albeit a fairly upperend one, with Louis Vitton and Daimaru department store. From the Kama River it gets more interesting. The River itself is lined with restaurants with platforms extending out from their backs providing really scenic riverside dining. Extending East towards Maruyama Park and the Yasaka Shrine Shijo Street is now lined with Japanese lanterns and teh clothes shops now mix with more restuarants and souvenier shops.

I used the last of the sunlight to have a walk around maruyama park, the shrines and tearooms were now closed but it was a nice walk. Chika had reccomended going to Gion Corner which holds twice nightly shows at 7 and 8. The venue is located among the backstreets south of Shijo Street between the river and the park. Behind plain wooden fronts are the exclusive restaurants and teahouses where teh Geiko and Maiko entertain their clients. As a result this is prime geisha spottingh territory, and while looking for Gion Corner I saw no less than 4, moving gracefully from door to door while tourists snap away at them.

The show at Gion Corner provides and overview of Japanese traditional arts and entertainment In a single 50 min sitting you can experience Chado(tea ceremony), Koto (Japanese harp), Kado (flower arrangement), Gagaku (Court Music), Kyogen (Comic plays), Kyomai (Maiko performing Kyoto style dance), and Bunraku (Puppet Play). After I went upstairs to learn about tea ceremony before a cheap dinner and a walk back to the hotel. Back at the hotel, I changed into my yukata (Japanese style robe) and went downstairs to use the hot bath and massage chairs before bed.

Next morning I was up at 6.30am for teh hotel breakfast which starts at 7. I was out by 7.30 and at the first temple a bit after 8am. That day I saw Ryoanji Temple (Zen garden), Kinkakuji and Ninnaji in the North West. North of the city centre and off a main Road was Daitokuji with a wonderfully peaceful and quiet zen garden. From there I moved over to the East of the city for an afternoon including Ginkakuji, the Philosophers Walk (a scenic path alongside a small canal lined with cute little cafes and shops and backstreets full of character to explore), and Nanzenji Temple. Impressed at how much I'd managed to see, I decided to try and fit in a Maiko Makeover. I'd jotted down a few places on teh hotel's internet the night before so chose one and set off to teh Kiyomizudera area to check it out. This is another main tourist area just South of Gion. The Kiyomizudera is inteh running to be named as one of the "New 7 Wonders of the World" and the hill leading up to it is a maze of picturesque streets and alleys, dotted with shops, cafes, restaurants and small temples.

The studio was able to take me in straight away. After choosing my plan, they gave me a white cotton gown and tabi socks and showed me the locker rooms to change in. once undergarments were donned, it was upstairs for the make up - white face, red rimmed eyes and thick red paint on the lips. Next was down one floor to pick a kimono, then wait in line to be dressed before beinbg taken into teh studio for the shots. After teh official photos, the long trailing kimono is hitched up and you're free to don the high Japanese clogs and go out into the street behind the studio to take your own photos. The photographer came with me as I was alone to take some snaps with my camera, and also got a group shot with the 4 girls ahead of me. After that it was time to get undressed and de-maikoed, then a short wait to be presented with my hoto alboum (6 shots).

Walked back to Gion and had a slightly more expensive dinner before heading back towards the hotel. The Kama River was jumping as I walked past. The restaurants platforms were full of diners and below, groups of people were sittting by the river, some drinking beer. There were 3 guys with guitars performing and a generally good atmosphere. I guess it must be a popular gathering spot, especially in summer. Was back at the hotel just after 10. Quick bath and a lounge in my yukata reading teh teachings of buddha (the Japanese answer to the hotel Gideons) before bed.

Sunday was an even earlier rise (6am), as breakfast opened from 6.30. I checked out of my room and ate till bursting point (gotta make teh most of it eh). Headed back to Kiyomizudera as it had been closed when I came out of the Maiko Studio the day before. It opens from 6am but at just before 8, I practicaly had the place to myself. From there I headed further South to the Fushimi Inari Shrine - a hillside littered with hundreds of red tori gates lined up in snaking walkways. At the mid way point I stopped for a bowl of Kitsune soba. Wasn't in the least hungry but its their speciality and got to sit on a platform overlooking the mountain and the red trail of gates, for a lot cheaper than eating at Kama River. Started back up and at the next break got a great view over the city. There was one section left to climb. I started up it but being pushed for time so started downhill, took a path of to the side and as the toris and tourists got fewer and fewer found myself alone going through a woodland path with areas of bamboo towering over me. eventually emerged onto a nondescript street. Turned out to be a very picturesque little neighbourhood but teh streets were a total maze, and had to ask directions at every turn but turned out I was walking distance from my next destination, Tofukuji. This was Chika's favourite and has a famous Zen Garden but I was a little disappointed by the wooden bannisters obscuring the view - not Zen. I'd planned on spending a relaxing contemplative half hour to an hour there after all my walking but the atmosphere was not conducive so I moved on, intending to head straight for Nijo Castle, my final destination. However on the road leading down from Tofukuji, I stumbled across Sesshu-ji Temple. Its a small family temple surrounded on 4 sides by Zen gardens. Visitors have free reign to the house and its painted panels. I got some macha tea and picked a spot overlookingh the smallest garden - Zen heaven at last!

My final stop was Nijo castle (originally intended as my first). Turned out my timing was impeccable. I toured round the palace twice before leasurely strolling round the gardens (teh route around both is clearly marked out with all other areas closed off - no free reign here) and emerged at exactly the time I'd planned to leave. The inner palace was just like a set of a samurai movie and I could get a great picture of the shogun, lorda and coutriers going about their business.

So, that was Kyoto. Could definitely have done with another day or two but think I managed to get a good overview. Was also pretty lucky with the weather. Rain had been forecast, and summer is renowned for being horribly hot and sticky. However it rained only as I was arriving and leaving, with Saturday compltely dry, even sunny and the humidity wasn't half as bad as I'd expected.

Harajuku

2007-04-25T08:17:00.000-07:00

Kamakura

2007-04-25T07:48:00.001-07:00

Kamakura

2007-04-25T06:11:00.000-07:00

I took a spontaneous daytrip here, on Rachel's reccomendation, knowing nothing about it other than there was a "big buddha". It was about an hours ride out on the train, and on arrival I picked up a map at the tourist information and realised that there was at least a full day of sight seeing. I, however, only had about 3 hours so the woman at Tourist Informatiomn circled three of the thirty odd attractions shown on the map and set me on my way.

My first stop was the Kosokuji/Hase-dera Temple, a buddhist temple compound spread over 2 levels. There are several halls, containing statues of various bodhisattvas, From the top there is a viewing platform looking over Yuigahama Beach, and on the steps back down you pass by rows of little stone statues, some wearing knitted caps or scarves. Their purpose is to comfort the souls of unborn children. Back at the far end of the lower level there is a cave, containing images carved out of rock, and hunreds of small wooden carvings.

Next stop was the big buddha - at 13.45m tall the second biggest in Japan! Didn't have time to fit in any more temples but was sure to make it to the beach - not quite Thailand but the only beach I've come across in Japan. Overal a nice day out, a bit of a tourist trap but a worthwhile day trip from Tokyo and I'd definitley go back and explore a bit more.

Daikanyama

2007-04-20T06:10:00.000-07:00

Daikanyama

2007-04-18T07:28:00.000-07:00

Daikanyama

I unwittingly stumbled upon this great little area just after arriving in Shibuya. I got into Shibuya around 4pm but wasn't meeting Frank, Nicola and Rachel till nine, so I stuffed my backpack and jacket into a locker and began to walk a little aimlessly while working out how to spend the next few hours. I had a vague idea about walking to Harajuku, one stop away (more about Harajuku later) but not knowing exactly how to go about it set about following the train line. Shortly after setting off, I got a message from Yoshi, a Japanese guy I know from when he spent a year living in Glasgow. He told me he could meet me in Shibuya, at 5.30 pm, leaving me 45 mins to explore...

After half an hour of strolling, I turned back to meet Yoshi back at Shibuya Station. When he suggested a coffee, I had just the place in mind....a long, squat cafe, with classy leather sofas and armchairs, and at the far end floor to ceiling windows looked out over the railway track and the trains whizzing by every few minutes...

Over the next few days, I visited Daikanyama several times, making new discoveries each time. On Saturday I found myself once again with time to kill while waiting for Chika to arrive in Shibuya from Sapporo. She had been due to land at 2.30pm but due to snow in Sapporo, first her bus and then the flight were delayed. I came back to Shibuya from a day trip to Kamakura with no idea how long I would have to wait, and her phone turned off. From Kamakura, I exited Shibuya via the "New South exit" and set off blindly on foot. I again stayed close to the railway, coming across more graffiti art adorning tunnels and underpasses. Next to a slightly shady underpass, a bank of vending machines caught my eyes - for the first time, I saw among the soft drinks and beer machines, a unit selling full bottles of whisky and shouchu (Japanese spirit)....

2nd from the left - check out the attempt at trying to smash it in!

I foubnd myself in what I figured to be the centre of town via a maze of alleys dotted with designer boutiques and packed with character. Emerging onto a main street, it was a lot posher but still pretty cool. I didn't see the Starbucks or the Gaultier flagship store though I have since read of their existence. Guess I only grazed the surface...

okonomiyaki

2007-04-09T18:05:00.000-07:00

Last night had my first try at okonomiyaki. I have to admit I'm not the biggest fan but it's still something Japanese to check off the list...

The okonomiyaki is cooked on a hot plate built into the table. It's a lumpy mixture of cabbage, meat and ginger coated in batter. In some places you cook it yourself but here it was done for us.

Once cooked, an egg is cracked onto the hot plate, and the okonmiyaki placed on top of it, when it is flipped again, there is a smooth base on which to spread the toppings. The server turns the grill off and leaves us to it. There are 3 sauces - sweet, medium hot, and hot, plus mayonnaise, nori and fish flakes. Due to my fussiness, we only added the sauces on the grill and the other girls added the rest on the plate.

Genghis Khan

2007-04-02T18:03:00.000-07:00

Got a message from my flatmate Jackie while I was at work in Tomakomai (a 40 min express train ride from Sapporo) asking if I would like to go for Genghis Khan - and that it would be FREE!

There are 2 main venues for Genghis Khan - The Sapporo Beer Factory and the Kirin Beer Factory. We went to the latter. I had never been before but had been wanting to chexk it out ever since I camew to Japan so I jumped at the chance. Another Nova English teacher - Kim, is about to leave for Tokyo so her boyfriend's boss offered to treat her and her friends as a goodbye present. My friend Aika also came along - she has just moved to Sapporo from Kushiro.

The Genghis Khan is served in a large open hall. Each table has a hot plate set into the centre. Meats (generally lamb) is served raw with cabbage and shoots to go, and you cook your own at the table. Our host for teh evening insisted on getting the best of everything so we had the premium meat deal (all you can eat) and the premium drinks deal (all you can drink with everything on the menu included) , plus salads and sushi extra. Our beer was served in a "tower" with a tap to pull our own. Left with a very full stomach.

Spring is in the Air!

2007-03-23T06:29:00.001-07:00

I found out on Tuesday that there was yet another national holiday occuring the next day (March 20th), this one marking the spring equinox. which is the midpoint of the week long Japanese celebration of "Higan". It is traditional for Japanese to visit family tombs on this day to polish the plaques and leave offerings. However with snow still on the ground in Hokkaido, this one isn't really observed up here. Still it's a day off work for a lot of people (Nova staff not included).

Spring still seemed pretty distant the next day with the snow and sleet coming down, however on Thursday I walked to work in bright sunshine with an accompaniment of birds twittering away. Was quite odd as the park is still covered in a blanket of snow and wil be for the next month or so. The next thing to look forward to (after Tokyo of course) is hanami - when the cherry blossoms come out. I'm hoping they will come a bit early and hit on my birthday (quite possible as its been an exceptionally warm winter and Tokyo has already bloomed ahead of schedule) - fingers crossed!

Dog House

2007-03-10T18:53:00.000-08:00

This Sapporo club is held the last Sunday of the month from 10pm-10am. The room is tiny - 20 people feels like a good crowd, and the atmosphere is great....

A typical Nova leaving party...

2007-03-10T18:10:00.000-08:00

This one was for Justin. Most parties are held in large izekayahs such as this one. There are 5 nova schools inSapporo so there's usually a pretty good crowd. Each party is sat in their own private booth ranging in size from a table for 4 up to this. For a set price you get an all you can drink deal called "nomi-hodai" then just order food from the menu. The guy in the navy t-shirt at the front is the only other Scottish nova tacher in Sapporo.

Japaese Hillbilly, Bessie Hall, Sapporo

2007-03-10T17:56:00.000-08:00

OK, not really hillbilly, but they preceded a hillbilly band. Check out the hairdo's - brylcreamtastic!

Snowboarding

2007-03-10T16:28:00.000-08:00

I first went up Teine Mountain before Christmas last year and on my third visit last Wednesday I finally got it! In getting it, I mean being able to turn both ways and travel in an approximate direction of my choice and start developing slowing and stopping techniques beyond flinging myself to the ground.

Teine is pretty accessible from Sapporo - from my apartment it's a subway ride to Sapporo Station then a train to Teine where a courtesy minibus takes riders up the mountain to the lodge. However I fear that with the season looking like its coming to a premarture end, that I've not really made the most of it. Sapporo, like the rest of Japan (and the world?) has had an uncommonly warm winter and nowhere near the amount of snow that should be falling. There's been no big dumps for ages and the foot thick ice blanketing the road outside my apartment has melted away to nothing. On Wednesday the slopes at Teine had had no fresh snow for a while, and ice paches were begining to be exposed. On my first ride down, I tried turning in and when I landed on my knees I felt like I'd kneecapped myself. There was a whole lot of pain to follow, mainly to the knees and bum, but I persevered so am pretty impressed with myself for progressing under such shit conditions.

I have been told that as the spring progresses and the ice start to melts, Teine will turn into slush mountain, which actually sounds kinda fun, but oh, just one more big dump so I can get the feel of riding on real snow - I'm starting to see how this business can get adictive.....

Tokyo! (part 2) New Year

2007-02-14T16:50:00.000-08:00

New Years Eve (as I'm sure you're aware), fell on a Sunday. Sundays in Tokyo are renowned as the best way to check out some of the citys more 'alternative' scenes. Number one in the list is Harajuko where in close proimity you can encounter both the 'cosplay girls' and the 'dancing Elvis's (more about those later).

Rachel had some work to do but said she would come with me to Harajuko later in the afternoon, and having heard no word from Anna and Bree, I grabbed myself some food and my Lonely Planet for a late breakfast in Rachel's kitchen. Had a chat with Rachel's housemates, Canadian demi-hippies Oliver and Lesley. Lesley gave me a reccomendation to go to Shimo Katazawa telling me it had some interesting little shops and cafes and was a nice place to hang out. So, I took her advice and jumped the train 2 stops to check it out. I absolutely loved it, small, compact and chilled but with great atmosphere. Most of the shops and cafes were independants - little boutiques, second handstores, skatewear etc. I picked up a cool little cat purse and chilled with a coffee before heading back to pick up Rach for some freak spotting...

I unwittingly emerged from the train station by a minor exit and as a result spent some time wandering round some residential areas. I came across some great architecture and even a few shrines like this tucked away before circling back round to the town centre.

By the time we made it to Harajuko it was almost sunset. A little disappointingly, the cosplay corner was almost deserted, maybe around 5 girls - not quite the spectacle I was hoping for. Most of these girls live in the dormitory towns surrounding Tokyo. At the weekend they jump on the train, with wheelie cases packed with make up and accessories, and don their weekend identities where they primp, pose and preen for tourists and professional photographers alike, before jumping back on the train to their small town and school on Monday morning.

We did however get to see the dancing Elvis' n the park across the road. However they too seemed to be winding down for the evening and only a few spectators remained. We carried on through the park as the few groups remaining were packing up their Sunday afternoons for another week. I bet it would be a great spot for people watching in the spring/summer.
Back out on the street we went on a hunt for a mulled wine cafe. It proved unsuccessful but we passed through some cool little back alleys in the process.

We decided to go back to the apartment to get ready for the night ahead, despite still having no set plans. Got ready with some vodka in then went through to Oliver and Lesley's room for a drink with their friends. In the end we took in the bells in an English bar of all places before heading onto Womb - one of Tokyo's largest nightclubs. It was absolutely rammed with people, and it was after 3.30am, before there was any space to dance or socialise properly. We stayed till 5.30 then moved onto another place, this one a lot smaller and mainly regulars, until 8am.
@Womb

New Years daywas super chilled. Got up to take a phone call from home. Rachel spent the whole day in bed, so I hung out with Oliver and Lesley in the kitchen who kindly fed me udon noodles in soup with daikon and tofu (very healthy), then took me on a sunset walk. That evening, Rachel's bandmate cooked us dinner and we cracked a bottle of red wine.

Jan 2nd went to the Imperial Palace. The grounds are only open 2 days a year and Jan 2nd is one of those days (the other is the Emperor's birthday). I followed the flag carrying crowds as were guided through the grounds to a square looking onto a long building with a glass enclosed balcony running the entire length. It was only at this point that I realised the imperial family were acruall due to come out and address the crowd. 20 mins later, the imperial family emerged to much flag waving...

The palace is situated right at the heart of Tokyo -an oasis of peace an tranquility - a real contrast to the city whose skyline rises up all around.

After the Palace I followed the crowds and ended up at another shrine - the road up to which was lined with stalls selling food and trinkets, and up at the shrine, as in Asakusa, people were making offerings and buying fortunes...

My plan was to go back to go back to the Tokyo View at Mori Tower in the afternoon to see the day view, check out the art gallery there and watch sunset. Was held up slightly a a result of bumoing into Madeleine - a friend from Scotland who is teaching English on Honshu for Jet. We bumped into eachother on the stairs of Shinjuku Station - the busiest in the world!

@Tokyo View, Mori Tower

My last evening in Tokyo, I met up with Rachel for dinner. The Thai restaurant we had planned to eat at was still closed for thr holidays and we ended up eating in Pizza Express -and very nice it was too. We went for a couple of drinks in Shibuya befoe calling it a night. Next day, I got the monorail back to the airport.

Tokyo! (part 1)

2007-01-05T17:17:00.000-08:00

My first view of Tokyo was from the air. Haneda airport is located on a piece of land jutting out into Tokyo Bay. From here you can see the city fan out - a sea of grey dwarfing the blue of the bay. Its a pretty spectacular sight- a completely manmade environment stretching as far as the eye can see.

At Haneda, I was meeting Anna, who I first met at a party on my last weekend in Glasgow, and who just happened to be coming out to Japan with Nova a month after me. This was our first meeting in Japan as she is placed in the South island of Kyushu so we were both pretty excited to be in Tokyo. I had arranged to meet both Rachel and Yoshi in Shibuya. We were to come out of Shibuya Station from the Hachiko exit, which faces onto Hachiko Square (our meeting point), and just beyond that Sentaa Gai, which is reported to be the world's busiest junction- you may recognise it from the movie Lost in Translation. I couldn't think of a much better location as my introduction to Tokyo...

This photo was taken from the walkway connecting the two parts of Shibuya station. Starbucks have grabbed prime location here. The first 2 floors of the Q Mark building are occupied by the busiest Starbucks in the world, right on the corner of the busiest crossing in the world. Just out of frame on the left is a Nova sign and it would soon become clear that both Starbucks and Nova are everywhere in this city.

Ueno and Akihabara

On our 2nd night, Rach took me and Anna to the Black Sheep - the bar she used to work in. There we met Mogi - a bonafide Japanese Irishman with a "tick" Cork accent. The next day he agreed to take us on a sightseeing tour. We were now joined by Bree, Anna's Aussie flatmate in Nobeoka. She had heard about Tokyo's maid cafe phenomenon, and wanted to check one out, so Mogi gallantly pledged to help us search one out (more on this later).

The first stop was Ueno. We started with a walk through the park, home to the largest concemtration of museums and parks anywhere in Japan, as well as a zoo, and one of Tokyo's most popular spots for hanami (cherry blossom viewing). We walked along avenues lined with bare cherry blossom trees and I could only imagine what it would look like alive with pink blossoms and groups of salarimen camped out on sheets spread on the ground below ( a junior employee having been sent to stake out a good spot hours beforehand), drinking and composing haiku.

Due to the time of year most af the park's attractions were closed, however the nearby market was absolutely heaving.

Ueno Market Gaijin Spot Challenge! You have 3 seconds to find Anna....ready? Go!

One.....ok, well done!

The Jolly Octopus guy!

Akihabara is best known as Tokyo's 'Electric Town'. It's one of the largest shopping areas in the world for electronic goods. However in recent years it has also become renowned as a centre of 'Otaku' culture. The term roughly translates as 'obsessive' or 'geek' with the main interests of Akihabara otaku being gaming and anime. I got the chance to witness these guys (it's definitely a predominantly male thing) first hand when we dropped into a Segaworld. While the other's used the toilet, I waited on the 3rd floor (of 5) among rows of consoles loaded with a combat game featurng female anime characters (a perfect Otaku combination) the guys sat in silence in front of their console pressing buttons and moving the joystick while scantily clad, long legged anime girls drop kicked each other, ashtrays by their sides filling up and other otaku (all solitary guys) watching on, arms folded, as Mogi walks by shaking his head and muttering under his breath (in the "tick" Cork accent remember) - "Geeks, geeks, fecking geeks". At the top of the stairs leading up to this level, is a noticeboard where some of the otaku have even posted illustrations of their favourite character. I got the feeling they spend a lot of time here.

The Maid cafe (マイド）phenomenon has been around for a good few years although I had never heard of it before this trip. At these places, waitresses are dressed in Victorian style, frilly maid costumes, based on manga/anime stlye. The concept behind it is the customer is the master in their own home from home, so customers will be greeted with "Welcome Home Master/Lady". Maid's use the most respectful forms of language and may even kneel down in front of the customer to stir sugar into their coffee etc. There are apparantly many maid cafes scattered across the area so we were a bit surprised when we had so much trouble finding one. Armed with a map from a local electroics shop we headed for "@Home". It occupies 4 floors (Maid style, Maid massage, Traditional Japanese style, and the @Home Lobby, which the lift automaticaly stops at for check-in. We emerged in a lrge open plan space with reception desk, waiting lounge, and merchandise. Mogi waited in line for the reception to discover that there was an hour and a half wait for a table at the Maid Cafe, and an hour for Traditional Japanese stlye. We decided not to wait but before leaving checked out some of the merchandise (including tinned 'マイド' chocolate bread and canned cocoa) and the portrait snaps of the 'Maids' in costume lining the walls. We carried on the search and found two closed cafes followed by soem very downmarket, drab and downright uninspiring offerings before finaly coming to a backstreet building with 3 floors - a cafe on each. We had a look through the doors of the first 2 without seeing anything interesting, and on the 3rd floor, "I ♥ MAID" had a queue stretching down the stairs. By this time I think we were all a bit 'Maided Out' so decided to call it a day, but an interesting foray into one of Tokyo's more quirky subcultures nonetheless.

Roppongi Hills

That evening we were all a bit worn out, so me and Rach decided to go to the cinema. We ended up missing the showing so went to Roppongi Hills instead. The development was opened in 2003 and is uber modern, with leisure and retail facilities, cinema and office space. The Mori Tower also houses the Tokyo View, on the 53rd floor. After having a walk around we went up and were absolutely blown away to see Tokyo night view spread out below.

Roppongi is renowned for its high concentration of foreign residents and tourists and the 'gaijin bars' that service them. We gave the foreigner bars a miss but did take advantage of the foreign cuisine on offer, and ate at a Mexican restaurant/tequilla bar that Rachel had reviewed for her magazine.

Asakusa

Next day, met up with Anna and Bree again. They had got up super early to go to the fish market. I decided to take it easy and meet up with them later in Asakusa. Asakusa used to house Old Tokyo's pleasure quarters, the 'floating world'. These days it draws tourists looking for a taste of Old Tokyo and devotees flocking to the sensoji buddhist temple which is dedicated to the deity 'Kannon'. On stepping out of the train station, I was struck by the virtual absence of high rise and neon. The area has been largely neglected by big business and is a refreshing break. the streets surrounding the sensoji are narrow and lined with stalls and shops selling a variety of traditional snacks and souveniers, and hand pulled rickshaws for hire. The area was bustling with people buying fortunes, praying and sughtseeing...

Me at the approach to the sensoji

The smoke billowing out from the incense burning inside is believed to have curative powers. People crowd around, wafting the smoke in their direction for luck and good health.

The main entrance to the temple with the its famous giant red lantern.
Inside people throw handfuls of coins into the slots of the offering box beyond then clap twice to close the deal.

A view taken from the steps of the main temple.

The grounds surrounding the sensoji contain ornamental gardens, some small shrines, and a 5 towered pagoda.

Nabe and Karaoke in Ikebukara

That evening, we were all invited to dinner with a bunch of regulars from the Black Sheep. Our host for the evening took us to a nabe restaurant, which I was very pleased about as I had been wanting to try it for ages, and its soemthing you really need a group for. Basically you can choose between soya or miso based soup and the rest of the infredients are added to this. The ingredients are brought out raw to the table and are cooked in front of you. Once its ready you just serve yourself with the bowls and ladels provided. This is a popular meal for people to prepare at home when they have friends round.

After dinner we all went to karaoke nearby where I debuted my first performance in Japanese...

We ended the evening in yet another restaurant for late night snacks and sake before being treated to a taxi ride through the streets of Tokyo back to Shibuya.

Move back on

2006-12-15T00:53:00.000-08:00

I got word this week that another replacement has been found and so my move to Sapporo is back on the table. My new departure date will be 1st February, providing my replacement arrives and noone else resigns in the meantime. This should see me arrive just in time for the snow festival.

Winter Wondermarshland.

2006-12-15T00:14:00.000-08:00

Went back out to the marshland this time with Erica. The snow has come so I have now seen the place in 3 seasons in 3 months....

snow!

2006-12-10T17:34:00.000-08:00

Kushiro is now covered in a white blanket of snow. The first fall came just over a week ago on Saturday night. There was nothing when I left work, then a few hours later I looked out the window as I was on the phone arranging to go out and everything was white.

That night me an Erica (the new flatmate) went out with Sotaro, teh translator for teh hockey team. We went to meet his friend Martin. A guy from Watford who has been living in Kushiro for 15 years now! He was out with the Finnish referee of that days hockey game, and a Japanese guy. So with Sotaro being Canadian, American Erica and me, it was quite an international group...some good chat. We went to a place called 'Western Bar' - Wild West themed with swing doors and cowbot boots...and dart boards. Martin invited us over for christmas turkey and Blackadder dvds on teh 25th but I haven't spoken to him since so guess I'll see.

The snow only lasted till the next evening then exactly one week later we had the second fall (again while arranging to go downtown) and this time it has stayed. People are having to dig their cars out. Me and Erica are planning to go out to the marshland tomorrow as I have a late start (3pm) and Erica's off. Looking forward to seeing it all white so hope the snow will hold out till then. Put our two christmas trees yesterday, a bit of tinsel and we''ll be set.

I'm off to Sapporo on the 20th for 3 days, back in Kushiro for Christmas then fly to Tokyo on the 27th. I'm hoping to go boarding in Sapporo. They've had snow there for a while. Tokyo is much milder and I'm so excited to be finally going!

Japanese house with $500,000 toilet

2006-12-03T17:45:00.000-08:00

Des'ree has left and I now have a new flatmate, Erica. She is 25, American, and into snowboarding. So far we've got off to a great start. She arrived on Thursday and left for Sapporo this morning for training. She'll be back to start work on Saturday.

Last Monday, I got a call inviting me over to a house party. The call was from Ren and Ayumi (of Shyusens) with Aaron (Canadian teacher) in tow. The house belonged to one of the regulars at Shyusens and they were on their way over when they called. I went round with Mike about an hour later. The house was lovely. Everyone was sat round low Japanese style tables. They had takoyaki and fondue out. Tako is octopus and takoyaki is balls of batter mixture with a piece of octopus in the middle. The takoyaki maker has a tray with spherical indentations. The batter mixture is poured into the tray, then a piece of octopus into each little hole. When the batter starts to solidify, it is formed into balls by turning with a pick. The batter is really nice but not so keen on the octopus...really chewy. They also had fondue, and plenty of beer, wine and sake. The daughter of the family, studied in America and has great English. The family have a holiday home by Kushiro lake and they showed a video of them all waterskiing and relaxing in the hot tub. The night we were there was the one year anniversary of their house being built. The toilet alone is worth $500,000. When you enter the room a sensor opens the lid and turns a light on in the bowl, then flushes itself and closes the lid, and turns off the light when you leave.

tsunami

2006-11-18T03:56:00.000-08:00

Just a short post to reassure everyone that I have survived the Hokkaido tsunami.

At around 8.20pm Wednesday night, just as I was finishing work there was an offshore earthquake measuring 8.1 with its epicentre near the Russian owned Kuril islands, off the North East coast of Hokkaido I didn't feel anything but Gregg and Chinatsu said they did. By the time the tsunami warnings were issued we were all in a nearby restaurant for Mike and Des'ree's welcome dinner. Japan's tsunami warning system issues an automatic warning via tv and the internet. Mike and Chinatsu received warnings to their mobile phones and shortly after my dad was phoning from uist having seen the warnings on the news back home. At this time they were expecting a wave of 1-2metres. Evacuation orders were issued to several towns on the coast. In the end, however, the waves rolled in at a maximum of 60 cm, and in Kushiro it was about 20cms, but I guess its comforting to know the warning system is there.
Meantime we feasted on kobe beef, pork and yukke (raw minced beef mixed with raw egg).

Move on hold

2006-11-18T03:24:00.000-08:00

Des'ree arrived Wednesday then out in her notice exactlt one week later, so my transfer to Sapporo is on hold until they can find another replacement. I was due to move out of the apartment 10 days from today and had just started looking for a laptop to transfer all my files and photos to before leaving. Luckily I hadn't said anything about leaving to any of the students..although I was on the verge of it. My area manager is still planning on bringing me to Sapporo and Im quite happy to stay another month or so. I've become friendly with some of the foreigners on the local hockey team and would like to go see a home game before I leave - the next one is sometime in December.

So, it's gonna be Christmas in Kushiro. My replacement will now be my new roommate - another American called Erica. She asked Nova for my email address and has been in contact already. She's due Nov 29th. Gregg will be going home for Christmas which leaves me, Mike and this Erica girl. New year holiday starts shortly after christmas (exact date still tbc) and lasts for one week. Still not made any decisions about where to go but thinking about Tokyo.

All change

2006-11-05T17:21:00.000-08:00

Jen's last day of work (Sunday) was also my first day working with Mike. He's 24 and from Michigan. After work, we all went out for Jen's leaving night. A restaurant followed by Shidax (Karaoke place with private rooms). Its a set price deal for all you can drink. I had been taking it fairly easy until I got confident enough to phone through my own orders. My first order was doubled and the next trebled! Still don't know what I said wrong.

Jen left Kushiro on Friday. I was sorting through the cupboards Saturday evening when Ayumi from Shyusen called me. She told me there was a Canadian guy in who wanted to meet me, so off I headed to Shyusen...
There were 2 guys there, both Japanese Canadian, and members of the Kushiro ice hockey team. They had decided they wanted a night out and wanted some more people so asked Ayumi if there were any English teachers she could call. Me and Ayumi ran round the corner to Mikes apartment and got him out, and another Canadian Aaron arrived with his grilfriend. Was great craic. Started the karaoke at 1am, and a pink afro karaoke wig appeared from somewhere. At some point another team member and the coach showed up from another bar. No idea what time we left but was definitely after 4 and probably closer to 5. Ren and Ayumi were due to play golf the next morning, getting picked up at 7.40am. I had arranged to go to the Kiku festival with Eric and his girlfriend Tomoe. I was supposed to call them in the morning and meet around 12pm. I came round at 12.40pm with Eric calling. I'd slept through alarm, 2 calls and 2 messages. Was too late to meet them but they picked me up in the evening and took me for dinner.

My new flatmate Des'ree arrives today while I'm at work. I'm actually quite excited about it. Typical that as soon as I start to make some friends I have to tell them I'm leaving....

Leaving Kushiro

2006-11-05T17:08:00.000-08:00

I got a call on Wednesday from my area manager, less than 2 weeks after submitting a transfer request. A space had come up in on of the branches in Sapporo. Although I hadn't asked for Sappro, he said that it was a chance to get out of Kushiro. I was also told that if I did accept I would have to stay in Sapporo a minimun of 3 months before I'd be eligible to transfer again, and that I had to make my mind up right then - I accpeted.

Kiku festival

2006-11-05T16:06:00.000-08:00

Kiku is the Japanese name for the chrysanthemum and Kiku festivals are held yearly in towns across Japan. Kushiro's Kiku Festival was held in an exhibition hall. The displays took up roughly the bottom third af the hall, with a stage and chairs erected in teh middle, and stalls selling food and flowers at the far end, behind the stage. When I arrived there were singers taking to the stage so I sat down and listened. The songs sounded very traditional and the singers were all older, as was the audience. Each singer performed one song, and a compere talked to some of them as they came off. Discovered at the end, that it had been a competition. By the time the end came I was sitting by the side with a bowl of Udon noodles and the place started to empty fairly quickly even though there was over an hour left to go. On of the door staff came over to me and gave me some green tea, then a guy at the table behind me gave me a balloon as he was leaving. People can be so kind here. Anyway, after my noodles, finally had a proper look at the kiki, there were long, standing, single stems, lined up in order of colour and paintings of kiku by school kids. There was also a row of craft items - oragami compositions, painted items etc and some bonsai arrangements. The centre piece, along the back wall, were a collection of lifesize dolls, there clothing constructed from flowers.

Me, my life and I

2006-10-26T04:51:00.000-07:00

Have spent most of today in my apartment trying to catch up on the blog and am almost there. So far everything I have written has involved my days off so maybe I should write a little about my work...

I have been working Saturday and Sunday 10-6.30, and Monday -Wednesday 12-8.20ish. However my days off are about to change to Friday and Saturday. Its gonna be changes all round over the next couple of weeks....
On Saturday, the 1st of two new teachers will be starting. His name is Mike and he's American. I've got 3 days off this week so I'll meet him at work on Sunday. Sunday will also be Jen (my current flatmate)'s last day of work so we'll be going into town Sunday night. Jen will leave Kushiro on the 3rd and and 3 days later, the 2nd new teacher and my new flatmate will arrive. Her name is Des'ree and she is also American.

I have pretty much only written about trips away as to be honest there's not a great deal else been happening. Most days I finish work, eat something then either sit on the computer or read/study for an hour or two and go to bed. The weeks have just been slipping away. In the past week, I met another foreign teacher in the mall who has been here a year, and am meeting up with him and his girlfriend tomorrow night. I'm also going to a Japanese class in town, where I should get the chance to meet some more people, and of course there's the two new teachers about to arrive. However, I've decided that Kushiro isn't the place for me, and put in a transfer request yesterday. It's highly unlikely I'll get a move this year though.

An Israeli backpacker in Kushiro

2006-10-26T02:56:00.000-07:00

The week after I had been in Sapporo, Saar (one of the backpackers I met on the town) came through to Kushiro for a visit. He arrived Thursday morning and I took him out to the marshland. it was amazing how much the nature had changed in the 3 weeks since I had last been out. Like someone had scanned the park into photoshop and changed all the vibrant green to faded gold. The foliage was thinning dramatically, and where there had been swaying green reeds, now resembled a golden hay field. And the panoramas had somewhat
taken on the feel of an African Savannah

We took a diversion from the walking trail to check out an archaeological site. What we found was actually a reconstruction. A small gathering of huts melding into the carefully landscaped rolling hills. Totally tellytubbyesque. We poked our heads into a few huts and found a supply of firewood and a smouldering stone hearth in each..obviously the highly visible maintenance staff had been busy. I reckon it would be a great place to go camping with a big carry out and some guitars, though I'll admit it is a bit smoky inside... something akin to a night in a Scottish pub, pre Smoking Ban - oh the nostalgia...

Was pretty worn out later in the day so dragged Saar off to the Cento for a hot bath, in my opinion one of the highlights of Kushiro....Back in the flat had a few vodkas then off to Shyusan for some Karaoke.

Friday night went downtown to check out a few places. Had a good dinner at a very typical Japanese restaurant. Small with a big mama behind a big grill and customers lined up along the counter calling for food, beer and sake. We had all three before hitting the bars. First stop was a reggae bar - we were the only customers but then it was still early...Next ventured into a downstairs venue which was split into 2 bars - English Pub QV and St Andrews Bar. Again we were the only customers but had a couple of drinks anyway and had a good chat to the 2 managers. The woman who runs St Andrews bar is a keen golfer and has been to Scotland many times. She also collects malt whiskeys and has some that are over 50 years old - priced at over 20 pound a nip. The last venue was called Bar Blow...and yet again we were the only punters and chatting to the owner/manager. I asked him where everyone was and he said they would come after 12. By the time we left it was past one and we were still the only people but he did have some good music and played me Primal Scream so I can't complain. But still, I can't get over how dead it is on a Friday night....

Sapporo

2006-10-25T21:37:00.000-07:00

Went to Sapporo not so much for sightseeing as socialising. Stayed with Jackie, in the apartment I stayed in when I was training.

Got the night bus from Sapporo, arriving at 6am. Made my way to the apartment on the subway. Jackie had made the futon up for me in my old room and after letting me in, we both crashed out immediately.

We set off late morning and had a walk round Sapporo, in and out of Department Stores. Downtown is packed with them. We also had a walk round the University grounds. We ate a late lunch in a Mexican style place located in the fairly vast network of underground arcades, incorporating around 150 boutiques and restaurants, with direct access to the subway stations and many of the department stores above. Jackie took me to an import food store where I got a few things but no hp sauce or Baxters cream of tomato soup :(

We went back to Jackie's apartment and got a bottle of wine. Had time for a quick chill out and a glass while Jackie customised a photo album for a wedding she had been invited to that weekend. We headed back out at 6pm, this time getting the subway straight to Susikino, the entertainment district. The first place was called Jersey bar - kinda of an English pub/Irish Bar mish mash. While in the toilets I saw a flyer for Primal Scream...they had been touring Japan, and played in Sapporo like a month before....aaahhh! Can't believe I missed the chance to see the Scream in Japan! The local baseball team (Nippon Ham Fighters) were playing for the championship and won, so the place was mobbed and a great atmosphere. We acquired a couple of Japanese guys and went to meet one of the other foreign teachers who was out with his Japanese friends. We went to a new bar run by a couple of Aussie guys with a Dutch chef. Most of the punters were foreign English teachers. By 11pm was pretty drunk..Jackie suggested making our escape and saying we were going to bed then going to one last bar...

We went to Rad brothers, a typical 'gaijin bar' for backpackers and teachers. We got talking to a couple of backpackers from Israel and France. jackie went home but I didn't want the night to end so stayed on with the guys and we went to a hiphop club. Was pretty empty...a handful of Japanese and Russian. Pretty random really but I had a great time and befriended a couple of Japanese girls. By the time we left it was gone 5am and getting light. I made my way back to the apartment and by the time I climbed over the balcony to get through the back door it was 6am. I had about 4 hours sleep before getting up to make my way back downtown for the 12pm bus.

The first part of the journey was pretty rough, and not too interesting, but after a bit of a doze felt not too bad. The route was pretty breathtaking. The road threads its way quite literally through the mountains, using a combination of stilts and tunnels which cut a line between, then straight through the centre of, the thickly forested peaks. Emerging from the mountain ranges, the landscape altered dramatically forming wide plains that looked more like America than Japan. This was agricultural land with tractors out gathering in the hay as the sun set....

Akanko

2006-10-08T19:25:00.000-07:00

Friday morning got up at 6am to get the bus to the resort town of Akan Lake(Akanko), a 2 hour bus ride from Kushiro. The town is home to one of the largest Ainu settlememts in Japan. The Ainu are the indigenous people of Northern Japan. Their territory once stretched north to Sakhalin and the Kuril islands, (now held by Russia), and South to parts of Northern Honshu. During the Japanese Meji Restoration, the island of Ezo which was the main territory of the Ainu was officially declared the Northern Island of Japan, and its name changed to Hokkaido. Japanese policy was geared towards assimilating the Ainu into the Japanese race, with their language being outlawed and incentives offered to native Japanese to settle in Hokkaido. Until fairly recently, it was common practise for Ainu people to hide their ethnicity for fear of discrimination, with some parents even hiding their ethnicity from their children. Recently their has been a cultural rennaisance among the Ainu people and government policy is now geared towards the promotion of Ainu culture. In Akan there is an Ainu village where crafts are sold, and a theatre with nightly dance performances.

Akan lake is also home to the marimo..a green algae which forms into furry balls, inhabiting the lake bed. Lake Akan is one of the only places in the world where marimo colonies exist (the others are Iceland and Esonia). Alongside Ainu arts and crafts are sold a wide variety of marimo memorabilia, from small, cultivated marimo in glass jars to t-shirts, keyrings, cuddly toys, Marimo Hello Kitty, and a whole host of other tat

A walking trail. leads into the forest and down via the lake front, leading to the bokke. This is a pool of hot, bubbling sulpher mud, and a local phenomenon. There is also a great view of one of the park's mountains, O-Akan dake from a pier extending out into the lake.

2km out of town is a small ski resort. In summer you can hike up the slope to the top of the chair lift for a view over the lake. There is also a trail winding through the forest up there leading out to more bokke. Walking through these mountain trails listening to the deep rumble of the earth emanating from the bokke, mixing with birdsong, was pretty magical. The leaves were every shade from deep green through to to deep deep red via lime, gold and rust. One more than one occasion I was stopped in my tracks by the sight of vivid red in a sea of green. The bokke here were even more magical, pools of grey, angry mud, spewing fetid, stinking sulpher, contrasted powerfully with the vivid beauty of the forest surrounding.

Bad hangover, nice Japanese lady...

2006-10-08T18:52:00.000-07:00

Last Wednesday went out to Shyusan with Jen, Greg, and Phil, our help teacher. It is the first time I've been out when I've had a day off following so drank rather more than usual...Next afternoon woke up feeling absolutely awful. Finally around 2pm, forced myself to get up and dressed, and rode into town. Sat in Mister Donut for the rest of the afternoon, an American franchise owned by the same people as Dunkin Donuts and Baskin Robbins. It sells a massive range of scrummy, donuts, cakes and coffee, as well as some Japanese style snacks and soups, and are found all over Japan. They have a scratch card promotion on at the moment in which you can win from a selection of bowls. A middle aged Japanese woman came and sat opposite me, and got a bowl set I had had my eye on. As she was leaving, she moved the box through the divide to me, and told me in Japanese it was a gift. I was well chuffed and very touched by her thoughtfulness.

Back downtown

2006-09-29T06:35:00.000-07:00

Woke up today and the sky was clear blue. Checked online that there was no rain due (the weather here can be more changeable than Scotland!), then decided to get myself in gear and make the most of it. I left the house aiming to catch the 10.45am bus to the National Park. Saw it coming just as I arrived at the bus stop, and didn't have time to chain my bike. There was 3 hours till the next one so carried on into town.

I first went to a small park in the city, that I spied from the bus last week. It's centrepiece is a fountain (not on) with a sculpture of some children perched a top. Lay back on one of the surrounding benches with my book and did a bit if sunbathing. I think the Japanese workers there were pretty bemused...

From there took a walk along through the entertainment district. Completely dead in the day but comes alive at night when all the restaurants, izekayahs and hostess bars open. The food in the photo is plastic. It is standard practise for restaurants to place models of each dish, with price, in the window, some of them can be pretty realistic. Even McDonalds next to my work has a foam mock up of a value meal, sitting on a table by the entrance.

I carried onto Nasumai Bridge and then up to Nasumai park, perched on a grass summit overlooking the town centre. Had never noticed it there before, quite zen, with little paths and trees and statues overlooking the city...

Brown Bears!

2006-09-21T04:37:00.000-07:00

Not exactly the sign you want to see when about to enter said nature trail. Especially when alone and equipped with neither whistle, bell nor radio. I considered going to ask the staff at the visitors centre for advice, but decided that my newly found ability to tell them my brothers' birthdays and that my dad's hobby is golf, while pretty impressive, probably wouldn't help much in this situation. As I stood at the mouth of the trail contemplating my next move, two 'salarymen' emerged, followed soon after by a couple with a baby in a buggy. None had the air of a person who has just survived a close encounter with a brown bear, and so, somewhat gingerly, I went in....

It was my day off, and once again, I had come out to the Kushiro marshlands. As you may recall from previous post, this is an area of protected wetlands roughly the size of Tokyo, and habitat of the Tancho (Japanese red crested crane). The nature walk I was about to embark on comprises a 2.5km circle trail built from wooden decking. The foliage is pretty dense and vast. The first 800 metres I walked without seeing a soul, and as I went along, whistling every 5 seconds, I found my mind wandering to contemplate how long it would be before anyone realised I'd been mauled by a bear and that the warning notice really could have given a little bit of advice on what to do should you actually do spot one?

At the first observation point, the trail branches off and leads down towards the site of an old railway track. This is now used as a hiking trail connecting to the Onnenai visitors Centre 3 km away. I was pretty keen on trying the hike, but as I set out, I was suddenly hit with the certainty that this was perfect brown bear territory, and I maybe wasn't quite up for a 3km hike in the wilderness, and so turned back to the relative safety of the wooden decking. Wouldn't have had time to hike out there and back before the return bus anyway. Back following the circle, I gradually began to come across more tourists. The first group were ringing away on their bear bell, but I subsequently came across a few maverick lone walkers.

At the halfway point, was the 'satellite lookout' which gave a great view out over the marshlands. I got some good photos (which I'm going to stick on bebo), and also managed to strike up a conversation with 2 girls from Tokyo. I finally emerged after just over 2 hours, and no, I never did see a bear....

For info on Kushiro marsh/ tancho cranes - http://web-japan.org/atlas/nature/nat16.html

Typhoons and Earthquakes

2006-09-20T05:59:00.000-07:00

A typhoon has been working its way through Japan the past week. There was substantial damage and some deaths further south, but as is usual, by the time it reached Hokkeido it had weakened considerably. In the end it didn't reach as far east as Kushiro, but we still got heavy rain Yesterday. Now the typhoon has passed, the whole country is now basking in sunshine. Won't last for long though. The autumn equinox (Sept 23), marks the start of the slide to winter. Off tomorrow, so planning a daytrip to an observatory in the marshlands.

Apparently there was also an earthquake measuring 3.5 in Kushiro yesterday afternoon, though I didn't feel a thing.

Out and about in Kushiro

2006-09-15T02:28:00.000-07:00

Spent today trying to catch up on computer stuff and Japanese studying. Took a walk over to the supermarket in the afternoon. It's a public holiday this week (still working though), and the massage chairs in Jusco have been moved to make way for a selection of stands selling very traditional Japanese stuff. Made a few wee purchases already.

Here's a few photos I took out and about in Kushiro over the last week...

Japanese style toilet

Nasumai Bridge, there are 4 scupltures, one representing each season, perched on the railings

The "Moo" and "Egg" complexes, one is a winter garden, the other houses retail, dining and leisure facilities

View of the river from "Moo"

Japanese Supermarket chain...nudge, nudge, wink, wink...

Right, I'm off for a bath at the Cento, until next time.....for those on Ringo and Bebo, there'll be some more photos there.

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park

2006-09-15T00:25:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, took the train out to see the Kushiro marshlands. Kushiro Shitsugen is the largest wetland in Japan, about the size of Tokyo, and has been given National Park status since 1987. It is the home of lots of wildlife, most famously the red crested white crane - a symbol of Japan and protected species. I took the Noroko Go tourist train, which takes a route through the marshlands and has wood finished, viewing carriages. All looked great until I realised that my ticket was for the unreserved carriage stuck at the end, which is duller than a Scotrail carriage and with mean little square windows. Was only on it for 20 mins before arriving at Kushiro Shitsugen Station, and didn't miss much really.

The station has a quaint little wooden waiting room(see above), which everyone both on and off the train immediately started taking photos of. After the initial camera rush, everyone headed off for the next photo opportunity, and I was left alone. There was a staircase leading uphill towards a couple of viewing points from which to look out over the marshlands. Got a few photos then headed off up a long windy, bumpy road leading nowhere. Found a few tracks leading into the wilderness, and one came out into a clearing with 3 deer standing on the slope. Really peaceful, with white butterflies fluttering about, dragonflies buzzing and the odd yelp of a deer (sounds a bit like a puppy). Started raining, had my brother's old North Face jacket to protect me, but was getting hungry and rain getting heavier so turned back. Didn't realise quite how far I'd walked, but eventually made it back to the lookout points, by which time the rain was pounding, and took shelter under a wooden rotunda.

Set off into the rain again in search of the visitor's lounge and coffee shop, and was pleasantly surprised to find it just round the corner. Headed straight for the bathroom and when I came out the rain was now falling in sheets. Visitors lounge was unsurprisingly rather full. Its a wooden building with comfy seats positioned around an unlit furnace, and a tv playing dvds about the National Park. Had a pizza and a coffee, the rain stopped, people started leaving, and realising there was a train back soon, headed back to the station. The train home was one of the regular local trains - only one carriage, quite a funny looking thing really.

Welcome night

2006-09-14T01:44:00.000-07:00

My 'Welcome to Kushiro' Night was held last Sunday. The whole Nova staff (all five of us) went for a "yaki-niku" at a restaurant about 10 mins walk from my apartment. "Yaki-niku" originated in Korea, but is popular throughout Japan. Each table has a barbecue grill set into it. There is a wide range of different meats, which are served raw and thinly sliced on platters. The Japanese staff did the ordering for us and we had lamb, chicken, plus a mixed platter, containing tongue! Also raw vegetables, sliced daikon (Japanese radish) and okonomiyaki (Japanese pizza or pancake with egg, cabbage and meat). Last but not least, a small portion of raw beef - lovely!

After dessert, we headed to Shusan, our local Izakaya (Japanese bar serving food). It's run by a brother and sister and all the Nova staff drink there. I'd already heard about it from the guys at Sapporo, and there's a Newcastle flag on the wall, donated by a previous teacher. Its really small and cosy with some seats along the bar, and a raised platform with four low tables and floor cushions. Me, Jen and Gregg got a bottle of Shochu each at 12 quid a go. Its a clear spirit, about 25% and slightly flavoured, drunk with ice and water. They put a label round the neck with your name on it and its waiting for you next time you come back.

After a few drinks, started on karaoke. All the songs are stored in a handheld electronic device which gets past around. You make your choice, hit enter, poining at the box, under one of the 2 plasma screens mounted on the wall, and it brings it up automatically for you. A couple of handheld mikes get passed around and you sing at your table. I started with the Arctic Monkeys, and finished with Daft Punk, with The Doors, Chemical Bros and Gorillaz in between.

more photos

2006-09-08T17:16:00.000-07:00

Sapporo town centre.

This is the view from a bridge in Sapporo. The cars are generally compact and dinky like this one, or massive big slinky beasts. (photo of beast to follow in near future)

On the subway

Japanese baths

2006-09-08T06:57:00.000-07:00

The rain never did stop yesterday, just got worse. Was confined to the apartment, apart from a quick nip back to Jusco to get some food for dinner. After coming out the checkout, stopped off at the display of massaging chairs. They're in the middle of the store, no sales assistant, just sit back and relax (the Japanese people do it too, it's quite normal). I plumped for a big red leather one and it was amazing. Like 4 people pummelling at you at once, it has a remote control with loads of different programmes. It does yoir head, neck, all down your back, and even squeezes and massages all down your legs.

Rained all through the night and through to this morning but brightened up about 12 and I bicycled into town to have a look around. In the evening, went to the 'cento' - a japanese bathhouse. There's seperate sections for men and women. you go into the changing room and strip completely naked before entering. In the main room is a big hot tub with fountain in the middle and a jaccuzi. all round the wall are washing stations with stools and shower heads, and you have to wash thoroughly with soap and shampoo before getting in. My flatmate told me that the women would be watching to make sure I washed properly but they didn't pay all that much attention to me really. She also told me that if you had a tattoo you would likely be ejected! Upstairs, there are several more tubs, and best of all, an outdoor tub on the roof with a Japanese rock garden, bare trees dotted around and a little waterfall in the corner. I had it to myself for ages. Was quite a strange feeling lying there completely naked on top of a roof behind a shopping mall!

rainy day off

2006-09-06T23:02:00.000-07:00

Have completed my first five day week at work and after 2 lovely sunny days in a row, which I missed, I have a day off with no sky on show and constant drizzle. I went out in the afternoon and finally bought myself a camera, so will try and post some photos soon. After that had a proper look round the mall I work in, and home again for lunch.

Off to go play with my camera and do some Japanese study, hopefully the weather'll be a bit better tomorrow and I can get out and about on my bicycle.

konnichiwa!

2006-09-03T04:12:00.000-07:00

Been in Japan for just over a week now. I arrived in Sapporo, Hokkeido, a week last Thursday. Flew into Tokyo where I was met by a Nova representative. My luggage was being forwarded onto Hokkeido by courier, and I was told to quickly take what I needed as my bags wouldn't arrive for another 2 days! Flew onto Sapporo and was met at the airport by my AAM (Assistant Area Manager)Steve, a kiwi guy who stopped off in Tokyo for 3 weeks on his way home from travelling - that was about 15 years ago. (Not planning to stay quite so long myelf but we'll see how it goes). He escorted me to my temporary apartment by train and it was at this point I discovered that I wasn't actually to be based in Sapporo, but Kushiro 300km East.

My temporary flatmate in Sapporo was on holiday so I had the place to myself for a few days. After getting dropped off by Steve about 10pm went out on the street for some takeaway gyoza(little dumplings) curry sauce and rice, followed by a Japanese style bath (very deep and hot) and straight to bed. Realised just at this point that I hadn't packed any business wear for going to the office the next day, the result being I got a day off in Sapporo before starting training to allow my case, and suitable clothing to arrive. I spent it having a walk through Nakajima park just near the apartment where there were several female choral groups rehearsing, then catching a bus out to a sculpture park which was fantastic.

Had four days training at the Sapporo branch. All the teachers there were male, and most had beeen living there for years. My American temporary flatmate Jackie got back from Thailand on the Sunday with her parents who were over on holiday. Sunday night we all had a barbecue down by the river with some other English teachers. The area we picked also popular with amorous young Japanese couples and groups of people letting off fireworks randomly(?).

Got through training alright but didn't really come across any real opportunities for socialising. I did meet one guy when I went out for something to eat my 2nd night. He told me about a club that on every Sunday 10pm to 10am playing drum 'n' bass, trance and other dance music but didn't do it.

Got the train to Kushiro on Thursday, about 4 1/2 hours, lots of green, and towards the end the train followed the coast at intervals. The train wasn't much different to those at homes but did the tilting thing which was pretty cool. Also everytime the girls came through with their trolley, when they got to the end of the carriage, they would stop, turn and bow to us all before leaving.

Kushiro is a very spread out city but pretty provincial and not a whole lot going on compared to other Japanese cities. My apartment is about 20 mins from the centre, a 5 min walk away from a massive shopping mall, where my Nova branch is located. The supermarket there is huuge - and I don't have a clue what half the stuff in it actually is. The apartment is pretty new, with an open plan kitchen/living area, 2 bedrooms, futon beds, a bath/shower room and seperate toilet. There is a little storage are at the front door to slip off outdoor shoes and slip into little slippers with bamboo insoles (if desired), and best of all...internet access. Probably one of the main perks of being so bloody remote.

I work with a Canadian guy Gregg, and Aussie girl Jen (who I share the flat with). There's also 2 Japanese girls working there, and on my 2nd day one of them took me into town to complete my alien registration, open a bank account and get a mobile 0081 (0)8032353616 if you fancy giving me a call or a message.

Last night there was a fireworks festival which we all went down to after work. They were being set off down by the river. It was pretty busy and loads of food stands..hotdogs, yakitori(meat on a stick), squid on a stick, noodles, popcorn, and even KFC and Pizza hut. Also quite a lot of girls, and a few guys too, had got dressed up in kimono. My camera is knackered but got a load of photos on my phone, though can't really do much with them. Afterwards there was a procession with floats carried by about 10 people each side. On top were soem kids all dressed up and a guy at the front throwing sweets into the. Watched for a bit then retired to an Izekaya (Japanese bar/restaurant) where I tried my first taste of sake. The waitress brings a small teacup in a bowl then pours sake into the cup until it overflows and the bowl is also full to the brim. It knocks your head off!

I realise this is turning into a bit of an epic so will sign off for the moment and keep updating with short snippets. Hoping to get a camera in the next few days so will hopefully be able to get some pictures on soon.

Ja matane! (see you later)